Hanoi Rocks...

Good name for a band but this post is about a restaurant in Auckland, a very fine one in Auckland's burgeoning Britomart District that specialises in Vietnamese food, Cafe Hanoi. We like it so much that we've eaten there twice in the past week and felt it was well worth a blog. Tony McGeorge and Krishna Botica are no strangers to food and hospitality as stalwarts of Ponsonby Social Club and the legendary Prego respectively. The pair saw an opportunity for a quality restaurant serving Vietnamese cuisine and knew that Britomart was the right place to set up. Along with chef Jason van Dorsten the duo spent plenty of time in Vietnam researching the food, decor and culture of a country steeped in tradition and taste bud titillation, and it shows.

TalkBlack with Jimmy D's James Dobson

Above: James Dobson by Guy Coombes. 

All photos below by Aaron K

After a critically and commercially successful show at NZ Fashion Week, Jimmy D, aka James Dobson is excited about the future of the semi-eponymous label which he describes as 'darkness and light' and is equally excited about his retail and online operation Children of Vision with Vicky Chan. In the first of an on-going series of TalkBlack discussions here on Blacklog, Grant Fell and Rachael Churchward pop down to the five and dime with Jimmy D to talk about Norwegian black metal, chiffon punk, Ms 45 and selling Bernhard Willhelm back to Europeans...

Lay Down In Splendour David Wood

So sad to hear of the passing of Straitjacket Fits bass player David Wood at the end of last week. David was a gentleman with a wry sense of humour, a cheeky grin and on occasion, a mean mullet. He was also an excellent bass player that underpinned many of the great New Zealand band's tunes including this one, Down In Splendour, which seems suitably apt to post in his honour today. Our commiserations go out to his family and of course Shayne, John, Andrew et al...

New Face: Krystian @ Ali McD/August

Rachael Churchward and photographer David Shields did a wee shoot with Krystian from Ali McD/August last week. Krystian has a great look and, as this image attests, the camera loves him. It continues to amaze us that a city the size of Dunedin can produce so many great faces. One to watch from the Ali McD stable, once again...

Faint Spells Good, This Friday

Photo: Olivia Hemus

Those of you who attended the Nom*D installation/show at this year's fashion week will have certainly seen Rebekah Davies (above) looking beautiful in a signature leather ensemble from the venerable Southern label's AW 2011 collection. She also sang beautifully, an ethereal lament which filled the room with a melancholic uneasiness. This Friday the talented singer-songwriter plays with her band Faint Spells at Tabac, 6 Mills Lane, Auckland. Featuring members of great local bands Dimmer and The Verlaines, Faint Spells Very Good Indeed. Support by James and Chelsea, members of Dimmer and Teacups respectively. Doors open at 8pm, $10 on the door.

Faint Spells:
Rebekah Davies - Vocals, guitar, bass
Shayne Carter - Bass, guitar, backing vocals
Tom Healy - Guitar
Gary Sullivan - Drums

Rookies On A Roll

Renuka Pana

After attending the AUT Rookie 2010 show at Rhubarb Lane last Thursday night we were left with the simple, inspiriting feeling that New Zealand fashion's future is bright indeed. It is a feeling borne of a higher standard emerging year-on-year from Auckland's two top fashion schools, and Wellington's Massey course, among others around the country. On Thursday night the quality of design, craftsmanship and creativity that marched down the runway (to great show music) from the 36 AUT Rookies was of a high standard across the board. Every designer showed promise, some showed a lot of promise and there were a plenty of winning garments and outfits to be seen. This year's Rookie show was also a quality event in other aspects; multiple bars and catering, grandstands, containers as film screens (that featured an opening Year 3 student's film, shot by Garth Badger), one of the most interesting front rows in a while, and a well-lit skinny horse-shoe catwalk all made for a classy, competent fashion show. We also loved the DPS programme that featured photos of the designers and a space for notes. We did make a few notes and asked AUT to send through an image from four of those designers, just a few that piqued our attention on the night. Congrats all round to AUT staff, tutors and students....

Wire Not? Colin Newman and co, like a 1979 heartbeat...

We've been thinking a lot about our much loved friend Johnny Pierce, original bass player for Children's Hour and Headless Chickens, who died 24 years ago last August. Wire, led by the consummate post-punk frontman Colin Newman was close to his favourite band and this tune, Heartbeat, recorded live in 1979, was one of his favourite tunes. It feels like a good time to post something in his honour...here's to you Johnny...gnrx

Stella Maxwell shoots Karl Lagerfeld look book

Photo: Dazed Digital

We discovered what a lovely person Stella Maxwell is when she shot beauty for Black 11 with Craig Owen. She's also a great model, and as her mother agent Aliana McDaniel says in this issue of Black, is "blessed with an amazing face and is incredibly lucky to have a genetic imprint on her physique that is actually quite unobtainable for most women, even for a lot of models." Karl Lagerfeld agrees. In the past month or so, the NZ model featured in his look book with photographer Xiang Sun and shot a campaign for Ermanno Scervino with model Anna Kalina in Florence. We tracked down Stella in Paris to find out more....

Black 13 cover: Derek Kettela, Michelle Cameron and Valery Gherman shoot Pauline Van der Cruysse in New York

We printed half of Black 13 at McCollams today with cuzzy bro Roger on the press. So important to have a rapport with your printers and Roger knows his colours from his black and whites. Here's the cover for Issue 13. Photographer Derek Kettela, stylist Michelle Cameron and Black New York editor Valery Gherman capture Pauline Van der Cruysse.

And You Thought A Sharpie Was A Pen

We are always fascinated by sub-cultures and this wee You Tube clip by Greg Macainsh about the 'Sharpie' culture in Melbourne in 1974 is indeed fascinating. Set at the Melbourne Showgrounds, a few thousand mulletheads are in attendance at the Lobby Lloyd and Billy Thorpe concert, and they're pretty amped. Check the hair cuts, fashion and dancing - unreal. Thanks to our good friend Bob Sutton for finding this...

Black 13: Preview - Paul Empson & June Nakamoto shoot Dioni Tabbers

Four four issues in a row, Paul Empson and June Nakamoto have teamed up in Paris to deliver beautiful, cinematic fashion editorial for Black. This issue they left the bustling French capital and headed for the hills, or fields more accurately, to shoot Dutch beauty Dioni Tabbers. Hair by Jean Luc Amarin, make-up by Tina Roivanien.

Review: Winter's Bone - directed by Debra Granik

Ree looking casually chic out front of her Ozark mansion

Around New Zealand, and around the world, in pockets hidden away from prying eyes, small backblock communities are living in the shadow of Hell. Methamphetamine use, and more exactly its production, has ravaged them beyond recognition, creating paranoia, fear, confusion and poverty. Isolation is the substructure of these tight-lipped communities where asking questions is asking for trouble. Whether nestled into the foothills behind Otorohanga, New Zealand or hidden in the forest down a winding, wintery road in the Ozark Mountains, Missouri, meth takes no prisoners and makes its own rules. The Ozark Mountains is indeed the setting for Debra Granik’s acclaimed feature Winter’s Bone. The film has all of the hallmarks of an Oscar winner and has already garnered Best Feature, Breakthrough Actor (Jennifer Lawrence) and Best Ensemble Performance nominations at the Gotham Independent Film Awards, considered by many as the harbinger of things to come over the awards season. Granik and director of photography Michael McDonough succinctly capture the essence of Daniel Woodrell’s book, underlining in candlelit perspective the writer’s classification as an exponent of ‘country noir’ and filling the screen with tension. Yet, it is the casting and performances, in particular by teenage actress Jennifer Lawrence which brings the film alive, as paradoxical as that statement may be.

The Bogans according to Lara Parker

Black fashion director Rachael Churchward recently worked with photographer Stephen Tilley on a second Lara Parker look book for the season and we have no doubt this talented local designer is one to watch. Parker released her SS10 range in two parts, the more demure Geeks collection and this West-is-best-we-love-Stevie-Nicks-when-she's-all-dressed-up range, entitled Bogans. The range is not quite as literal as the title would suggest however and playfully flirts with proportion, texture and a lateral interpretation of bogan sensibility. Ankle-grazing hemlines, as featured on the 'Stevie' skirt are juxtaposed with the A-line flirtiness of the "Peaches' dress. The ruched "Roxanne" mini confirms Parker is as accurate with her names as she is with her designs. Black is the foundation colour of the range but the mood is airy and feminine. Perfect for blatting out to the West Coast in the Holden Kingswood with the windows down... Hair by Lauren Gunn @ Stephen Marr, make-up by Kimberley Hill for M.A.C Cosmetics. Model: Imogene @ Red 11. All shoes by Maurie & Eve. We asked Lara about the range...

Black 13: Preview 6 - Jonas Bresnan and Katie Felstead shoot Kristine Drinke

At the printers with Black 13 so it's time for another preview. Our London crew; photographer Jonas Bresnan, fashion editor Katie Felstead - who is shooting for her third consecutive Black, hair stylist Mark Daniel Bailey and make-up artist Mel Arter have captured  Elite London's Kristine Drinke in an edgy yet sophisticated editorial. Shoe fiends will particularly covet these heels by Christian Louboutin...

Black 13: Preview 5 - Stephen Tilley and Rachael Churchward shoot Eve

Eve wearing bespoke Tanya Carlson 

gown and Huffer beanie

The weather has changed dramatically since the day Stephen Tilley and Rachael Churchward shot Eve @ August and Peter David @ 62 in a derelict factory in Helensville, thank God! Peter is a seasoned pro with plenty of European experience including a notable appearance in Love Magazine but Eve is still pretty fresh. We love her look and think she has a great future. Greg Murrell on hair, Shirley Simpson on make-up and Jessica Grubisa, assistant fashion editor. We're now on the home stretch with Black 13, thanks to all of those who participated in our Wunderkammer ring giveaway...

Wunderkammer Jewellery launches online - Win these rings!

 Ring 1

 Ring 2

 Ring 3

Ring 4

To celebrate the online launch of the brilliant Wunderkammer Jewellery range the talented jeweller Zora Boyd has kindly given us four rings to give away to Blacklog and Black Magazine Facebook readers. This competition is open to our Blacklog or FB readers anywhere in the world - all you have to do to be in to win is go to our Facebook page and post below the Wunderkammer story on the page why you deserve to win one of these rings. We've kept it simple by naming each ring, Ring 1, Ring 2, Ring 3, Ring 4 so don't forget to tell us which ring you desire. Have fun, be witty and be in to win...oh and you'll have to 'like' us on our Facebook page to enter, if you haven't already!

Black 13: Preview 4 - David Shields and Rachael Churchward shoot Ella Verberne

Here is a shot of rising local model Ella Verberne from our 16 page shoot this issue by photographer David Shields and fashion director Rachael Churchward. Built around the current Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear range which was flown into NZ for us to shoot for a day, Rachael teamed the gorgeous collection with locals Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester plus a few vintage pieces like this 70's Skellerup trench. Greg Murrell battled the rain and wind all day to deliver natural hair and Stacy Lee-Ghin applied the make-up. The two other models on the shoot were Victoria and Caity who, like Ella, are both at Clyne.

Black 13: Preview 3 - Rupert Tapper and Paul Bui shoot Natalie Keyser

Black Australian fashion editor Paul Bui has once again teamed up with photographer Rupert Tapper to shoot Kiwi model Bruce Raubenheimer and Aussie Natalie Keyser in the desert wastelands north of Newcastle for issue 13. It is a shamanic trip into the wasteland that perfectly demonstrates just what a free-thinking stylist Bui can be and confirms the creative bond between the pair. Hair and make-up to match by Sinden Dean @ DLM.

Flock Yeah! The Moped Army mobilises...

For many years MOtors with PEDals lay dormant in garages across America, skinny half bikes consigned to the tool shed, a nerdy victim of bigger is better and machismo. If the Los Angeles Latebirds and many other chapters of the Moped Army have their way though, those days are gone. Mopeds are the go, the antithesis of gang-banging and the misunderstandings that come with riding a two-wheeled motor vehicle in large groups. In recent times enclaves of intelligent, creative Young Americans have been rebuilding them, reviving them and riding them all over the place. The moped may be the ride, the well-paved roads of America the journey but the Moped Army is really about the people and in Silverlake, California, The Latebirds are the people. A family where kinsmanship, shared experiences, well-tuned bikes and freedom of the road is king. We love this clip of the Latebird rally heading into the foothills behind L.A to one of the greatest rock tunes ever, Lynyrd Skynyrd's Freebird. Anyone who has been on a scooter run or skated in packs will love this...

Black 13: Preview 2 - Michael Schwartz shoots Sara Blomqvist in Berlin

Incumbent Black photographer Michael Schwartz travelled to deepest, darkest Berlin for this issue of Black. The New York-based photographer shot Sara Blomqvist, one of our favourite faces and captured her strength and beauty admirably. Fashion editor was Raffaella Campeggi, Shawn Mount worked his magic on hair and Daniela Klein worked hers on the make-up.

Black 13: Preview 1 - Erdmann/Iles shoot Stephanie Rad

As we move into the design phase for Black 13 we're going to be busy like bees and will have little time for blogging so we figured we would pop up a few sneak peeks from the issue - as it is laid down. First up, a shot from the hair editorial that Robert Erdmann completed in London with hair legend Wendy Iles. Wendy styled up a few gorgeous, simple looks on the lovely Stephanie Rad with fashion editor Sarah Cobb - formerly fashion editor at Dazed & Confused and current contributing fashion editor to Another Magazine - styling. Make-up by Kirsten Piggott.

Sherie Muijs' Building Blocks AW 2011

As mentioned in the post below, we shot the Sherie Muijs AW 2011 look book just prior to fashion week and were amazed by the continued development of this young Auckland designer. She has a great crew on board too; Des Rusk who needs little introduction to local fashion people has had a hand in the label and also Linda Jones, the highly respected lecturer at AUT's fashion school. Sherie says that Linda is currently working on her masters and the pair have collaborated for this collection on rain wear. "We have found that there aren't any absolutely waterproof raincoats, in a fashion context, that have the same sort of integrity of a raincoat that you might find in our camping or farming industries." Form meets function. So how would Sherie describe the range, cleverly titled Building Blocks? "I have designed pieces in this range that are key pieces that I think everyone should have in their wardrobe. This range is about building up a wardrobe that has staple garments in there, that you will go back to season after season. Then of course, fun colourful pieces, to brighten up a winter's day." The range will be in store Feb, 2011. Meanwhile her SS 2010 range is in store now and selling like hot cakes, you can view that range here.

Photography: Russ Flatt
Styling: Rachael Churchward
Hair: Greg Murrell
Make-up: Karenina Jackson
Model: Lauren @ Nova

Out and about London Fashion Week by Dan and Steph

Marshall wears vintage fur hat,

 Zara jacket, pants and boots

Dan McGlashan was admin manager at Black HQ during our formative years but has now spread his 'fro to Europe - London at first, then Berlin. He attended a few shows at the London Fashion Week with partner Stephanie and they snapped these snazzy dressers for us...

Favourite M.A.C looks of Fashion Week

Huffer

M.A.C was omnipresent again at fashion week and for the third year running Russ Flatt took some great pictures. Congrats to Tatum Savage, Amber D and of course Jodie Matthews on a successful week. Here are our favourite looks of the week.

Nom D

Salasai

The Huffer School of Business - NZ Fashion Week show 2010

Huffer finale. All images by James Blackwood

The final day of fashion week was all about Huffer for us. As per last year we were ready to go by 12.30 so we went to The Longroom for our traditional show day lunch with Huffer designers Aaron Styles, Ella Moore and Aimee McFarlane and were well looked after by Des Hoeflich.

All week the speculation about the weather for Huffer's ambitious outdoor show had been rife but the boys had done their homework and show producer Jade Hurst got a final call from alternative weather forecaster Ken Ring in the afternoon. The weather would turn on sunset and be perfect for the show he advised, with the added suggestion to run as late as we could. He was dead right, the moon came out and the weather was perfect although in the afternoon the wind was still very strong and blowing the chairs over in large clumps (above).

Ye Olde Fashion Week Roundup 3 - Thursday

Last Thursday Night's Party with SGC: Photo - Hannah Johnston

Thursday started off with Twenty-Seven Names on site with a collection called 'The Fearsome Five,' although the 'Fearsome Twenty-Seven' would have been just as apt. High school was the overall impression but not High School Musical or Glee, more the Shannon Doherty/Tori Spelling incarnation from the 90's version of Hollywood 90210 replete with college jackets and blazers, school bags and white school socks.

The girl gang at Twenty-Seven Names

Pretty dresses, a hallmark of the Wellington duo, were ubiquitous in two-tone polka dot, a cute heart/cherry print and a multi-shade diamond print that matched the polka dot vibe. Many of the blazers were finished with  classic school blazer trim and the finale, with the girls storming down the runway en masse, felt more than a little reminiscent of the girl gang in Heathers. Twenty-Seven Names are creating a perfect niche for themselves that obviously connects with their growing legion of fans but also has considerable international potential. The after-party looked like a lot of fun too.

Ye Olde Fashion Week Roundup 2 - Wednesday

World flowing like the September winds

Come Wednesday morning we were very keen to catch Ruby and even made the effort to get up early at Muriwai but time, traffic and a bunch of phone calls about the impending Huffer show transpired against us making it in time. More Huffer pre-prod meant that we weren't able to make it down for Jimmy D, although from all accounts it was a great collection for the young designer.

The weather forecast according to World

Ye Olde Fashion Week Roundup 1 - Tuesday

Video shot at Kathryn Wilson show

Okey dokey, we've been pretty slack on the blogging front over FW partly because we are on deadline, partly because we put a lot of time and effort into the Huffer show and partly because we'd rather blog about the week as a whole. We didn't get to see anywhere near as many shows as we would have liked but we did see a few. So here we go, these were our highlights of the week starting with Tuesday:

Hands across the catwalk at Cybele

Popped down to Cybele on site. A large wooden effigy/totem akin to the Burning Man stationed at the end of the runway lent a pagan tone to the room for a collection entitled Nieriya. A mix of bustier belts and bras mixed neatly with printed singlets and dresses, silk fringes, knits, jodphurs and a series of hoods added to the pagan mysteriousness of the show. Cybele is going from strength to strength each year, and with a uniformity that was personified by the models linking hands around the catwalk during the finale.

So much To Tell You & Twenty-Seven Names Party

The lovely girls behind So Much To Tell You (Natalie Smith and Zoe Walker) and Twenty-Seven Names (Rachel Easting and Anjali Stewart) held a collaborative party yesterday down at Britomart. It served as a nice hiatus from the chaos of Fashion Week and everyone got to mingle and enjoy freshly popped popcorn, pizza and cakes. There was a polaroid camera to take everyone's pictures, a tarot card reader and a lucky dip! This was my kind of party. 

The baby cakes I made - lemon vanilla with rose water infused meringue icing

Shooting Sherie Muijs with Lauren

Russ Flatt shot the new Sherie Muijs look book at Kingsize on Friday with Rachael Churchward, Greg Murrell and Karenina Jackson on make-up. Model was Lauren @ Nova. During the week lovely Lauren is an illustrator and graphic designer, and shares offices with the good folks at No Magazine. We think, as the saying goes, Lauren's one to watch. Sherie's new AW2011 range is one of the strongest in a fledgling, but highly promising career. Sherie is most definitely one to watch as well. We'll post images of the collection by Russ Flatt when they come to hand. Happy fashion week...

Black 13: Derek Kettela shoots Pauline van der Cruysse

It's great to have Derek Kettela shooting again for Black. Derek has supplied more individual issue covers than any of our photographers bar Michael Schwartz and we have always loved his work. This issue he has shot gorgeous new face Pauline van der Cruysse. Pauline, a Belgian who has smokey Latin attributes that Penelope Cruz or Frida Kahlo would be proud of, is most certainly one to watch having walked this week for Marc Jacobs in New York and shot recent editorial for Vogue Russia, Vogue Portugal and Vogue Germany with Thomas Schenk among others. Mert & Marcus are right onto this girl so we are more then a little chuffed to have her in Black 13. Michelle Cameron styled and Black NY editor Valery Gherman did make-up.

Pets on Set; Ultratech and Lady make our day

They say that animals in the work environment can ease the stress and in the lead up to NZ Fashion Week, and Black deadline, that has been true for us twice this week. Ultratech, the in-house miaower at Kingsize Studios is already a much loved addition to the place and this week whilst we were shooting Black Beauty with Craig Owen, Amber D, Jason Chong-Li and Lizzy @ Nova, Ultratech (below) made herself right at home on the studio floor. For the second year running Rachael Churchward is styling the Huffer show and yesterday she snapped this picture of Huffer girl Ella Henry's beautiful Doberman puppy, Lady (above) at Huffer HQ...awww...

Karen Walker Spring 2011 RTW - Perfect

Karen Walker's Spring 2011 ready-to-wear showing at New York Fashion Week on Wednesday was inspired by the amazing photographer William Eggleston. Eggleston is a genius, and given that his  cinematic, colour-film, Mid-West photographic foresight is the range's genesis, it is apt that NZ photographer Derek Henderson should not only contribute a hydrangea image/motif to the range but that he should also be exhibiting in New York at the same time as Walker's show. All New Zealanders interested in fashion should be proud of Walker's continued official presence at one of the world's biggest fashion weeks. Year after year she fly's the flag for New Zealand creativity and design - and never disappoints. This year's range, Perfect Day,  invokes Eggleston's daring as the first photographer to break out of the black and white haze that had engulfed fine art photography for so many years by embracing bold colours and prints, and celebrating the extremes of daily drudgery and a night on the town somehow at the same moment. Her footwear collaborations; with the talented Carrie Cooper and with British footwear company Pointer, saw the models sauntering down the runway in fab Beau Coops for Karen Walker pumps and rubber-soled creepers respectively. All-in-all a Perfect Day for Karen Walker.

A few of our favourite looks...

Black 13: On set day two RCM/Workshop retrospective

Becky and Derya

Another good day shooting the RCM/Workshop retrospective for Black 13 at Kingsize. Russ Flatt shot Michael Whittaker and Declan @ Clyne, Ngahuia and Derya @ 62 models, Maalan and Teva @ Nova, Tim @ August and Becky @ Vanity Walk. Rachael Churchward styled with assistance from Derya Parlak, Jessica Grubisa and Yun Do. Greg Murrell and Tom from Ryder let themselves loose with the hair and Ambika and Olivia applied the make-up.

Black 13: On set day one RCM/Workshop retrospective

Simon and Rhianon

We shot the first day of our Black 13 RCM/Workshop 30-year retrospective with Russ Flatt at Kingsize studios today. The Workshop/Helen Cherry/Street Life archive is massive so Black fashion director Rachael Churchward has already spent the best part of two days picking, choosing and styling it up with assistant fashion editor for the shoot, Derya Parlak. This made for a great days shooting with models; Levi and Sakura @ 62, McInnes, Simon and Lauren @ Nova, Sabine and Frankie @ August and Lewis Clegg @ Clyne. Hair editor Greg Murrell and able assistant Jannine Jones created a range of looks to suit the times, and Rachel Johanson and Olivia Palmer applied some simple, beautiful make-up. Hard-working fashion assistants were Jessica Grubisa and Yun Do. Here are a selection of largely behind the scenes shots from the day...

Black 13 - Robert Erdmann and Shirley Kurata shoot The Latebirds in L.A

Robert Erdmann has delivered a fab story for Black 13 on an Orange County, Los Angeles moped 'gang' called The Latebirds. We love the whole concept of a moped gang so have dedicated a swathe of pages to the documentary style story, which is styled by Shirley Kurata. Shirley is an L.A based stylist who has worked with plenty of indie and mainstream music stars and styled for mags across the US and Europe. Shirley's boyfriend is the Latebird's head honcho and we love the styling and attention to detail on the shoot. Here are a couple of preview shots and out-take images.

Black 13: Bright Light, White Rain

We are in the middle of Black 13's local shooting schedule, and fashion week is close. Time has been of the essence over the past week or so, hence the lack of posts. Last Friday in an abandoned warehouse we shot, and surprise, surprise, it rained. The warehouse, warts and all, provided some shelter. Stephen Tilley photographed 62's flame-haired international Peter David alongside his "little sister", Eve @ August. Rachael Churchward styled, Greg Murrell on hair, Shirley Simpson on make-up and grooming. Jessica Grubisa, impressed as the more-than-able fashion assistant.

Eve