Happy Winter!

Photography by Robert Erdmann, fashion editor Katie Felstead, hair

Lyndell Mansfield, make-up Kirsten Piggott, model Kaja @ Profile London

Kia ora. The first day of winter proper has arrived in Auckland today, it's nice to get the woolies out. We've been having a little down time but we're back now and working on Issue 13. Like every issue we hope to make it the best yet, and thirteen is an interesting number that is conjoined with the colour black. There will be new editorial directions and we're also planning to change the way we publish Blacklog. We're going to return to the core reason we started the blog; to post stories about fashion, art, music that we like and to provide

some sort of visual diary behind the scenes at Black Magazine. Thus we are going to move to a weekly journal style main post interspersed with posts that are more in the moment, or on the day. Thanks to all of our contributors on Issue 12, here's a selection of spreads from the issue, with credits.

Photography by Michael Schwartz, fashion editor Tasha Cain,

hair Martin Christopher Harper, make-up Caroline Deli-Tesch,

model Sharon van der Pas @ IMG NYC

Photography by Robert Erdmann, fashion editor Kimi O'Neill,

hair Kerry Warn, make-up Kirsten Piggott, model Ellie Goulding

Photography by Craig Owen, fashion editor Rachael Churchward,

hair & make-up Amber D, model Alex @ 62 Models

Photography by Michael Schwartz, fashion editor Elizabeth Sulcer, hair

Tuan Anh Tran, make-up Valery Gherman, model Alana Zimmer @ Ford NYC

Photography by Stephen Tilley, fashion editor Rachael Churchward,

hair & grooming by Stefan Knight, model Josh @ August Models

Photography by Russ Flatt, fashion editor Rachael Churchward,

hair Greg Murrell, make-up Margo Regan, model David @ 62 Models

Photography by Rupert Tapper, fashion editor Paul Bui, hair Jenny Kim,

make-up Diane Dusting, model Annabella Barber @ Priscillas

Photography by Marissa Findlay, fashion editor Rachael Churchward,

hair & make-up Shirley Simpson, model Olga @ 62 Models

RAFW 2010 Report

Finale, Kate Sylvester

It all got rather busy over in Sydney when there were so many friends to talk to, shows to see, dinners to have and experiences to soak up. Rather than blog daily we thought we'd just post a diary of our week that was. Thanks to Tatum Savage at MAC NZ and Jodie Matthews at MAC Australia for being such wonderful hosts.

Front row, Kate Sylvester

Monday:

After an impressive Zambesi show (see previous post) we stopped at Pasteur, our favourite Vietnamese restaurant on George Street for fresh prawn rolls and salad before making our way out to deepest, darkest Alexandria. Stolen Girlfriends Club's Spring/Summer 2010/11 show was held at a warehouse address reminiscent of the Auckland venue two years back, in the perfectly-named Doody Street.

Given the designers are passionate surfers and spend plenty of time at the beach, the collection was also aptly named; Life's a Beach - Watch out for Crabs. Elements of humour - backpacks with holes punched in them trailing sand down the catwalk and of course slogan tees; 'Escaped from Malibu, California' and 'Don't Cry Cowboys' - were balanced with bold directional fashion concepts - prints for the first time (in Aztec and crocodile patterns), padded shoulder t-shirt dresses, sporty lines, leggings and dresses with stretch-denim panelling.

L-R: Zambesi and SGC Tokyo agent Lubo,

Dan and Luke, Rach and Greg

Sure this was a spring/summer collection but it was an entirely different beast to Welcome To Nowhere and that, in a nutshell, is what we love about Stolen Girlfriends; expect the unexpected. Stylist Zara Mirkin delivered and great hair by Greg Murrell and the Ryder team was matched with great make-up by Amber D and the local MAC crew. The after party at uber-cool Pocket in Darlinghurst included some of the best bar service we've been privvy to in eons, amidst wafts of the ubiquitous Gudang cigarettes.

Top: The Ryder crew pre-SGC

Middle: Katherine Lowe and Isaac Hinden-Miller

Bottom: Giwan and Sherie Rai of Sherie Muijs

Tuesday.

We spent most of Tuesday in meetings and catching up with our Aussie crew on-site, in particular Paul Bui and Rupert Tapper. The on-site venue at the Overseas Passenger Terminal in Circular Quay felt smaller than the Viaduct Village in which NZ Fashion Week is held but nonetheless the views of the city from the Rosemount Lounge were spectacular - as was the service - and the general vibe on site was relaxed and comfortable.

Rachael with Jodie Matthews, MAC brand general manager AUS/NZ

That night we queue for Friedrich Gray but the show is running an hour late and we need to attend the second MAC dinner of the week, the NZ designer and media dinner at the wonderful bar and restaurant complex The Winery, in Crown Street, Surry Hills. The two-story venue is beautifully turned out and has a wine list and menu to match. Invitees to the Elvis Room, adorned with some of the best Elvis images we've seen, included Zambesi, Kate Sylvester, Juliette Hogan, Twenty7Names and SGC crews, stylists Karen Inderbitzen-Waller and Zara Mirkin, editors Katie Newton, Zoe Walker, Marian Sims, MAC make-up artist Amber D and more. So good to see thirty or so passionate NZ fashion industry people in one room.

Wednesday

As dyed-in-the-wool Therese Rawsthorne fans we were disappointed that we didn't get out to her show but it was logistically difficult to make it Out West for a 9am show, then back in again for Kate Sylvester's 10am show on-site. We did make it to Kate at The Opt and it was well worth it. Entitled This Charming Man the collection oozed Morrisey's billowing sense of style and personality. A collection of two extremes, masculine/feminine, boys hair on girls and girls looking utterly feminine, we rated it as one of Sylvester's best yet. Stunningly pretty, subtle yet strong, the collection was magnificently styled to a bow-tie, collar and bride/groom finale by the very talented Karen Inderbitzen-Waller. MAC make-up by Liz Kelsh...

Top: Katie Newton and Tim Phin

Middle: Anna Fitzpatrick, Carla Robinson and friend

Above: Karen and Avril (right) with friends

Uptown to our favourite hidden Italian restaurant, the Lido Bar on George Street for lunch with Maree Mitchell of Title Management (thanks Maree) before popping into Zambesi in Paddington to hook up with Dayne Johnston. By now we're loving this cosmopolitan metropolis...

Above: Carrie Cooper and Rachael Churchward

Later we meet up with the N.M.I crew; Carrie Cooper (her Beau Coops shoe line is currently making substantial inroads into the NZ, Australian and European markets), Carla Robinson and their boss David Mascitelli who is hosting the Stolen Girlfriends Club at his business for the week to show their range to buyers. A crew return to The Winery and their sprawling upstairs couch bar as guests of N.M.I before half the crew goes to Romance Was Born. "Romance" is clearly the highlight of the week for those who celebrate art and extravagance in fashion and their fan club turns up in full force to the after-party at the Flinders Hotel on South Dowling Street. Here amongst Sydney's cool kids, we find ex-pat Shaun McGill sparkling in a Romance Was Born headpiece.

Thursday

Above: Gary Bigeni image six6photography.com.au

9am. Johnny at Lido Bar makes us the best coffee we've had all year - and we needed it - prior to being picked up by Carrie and shown the NMI showroom. We pick up a pair of Beau Coops each before heading down on-site to see one of our favourite Australian designers Gary Bigeni. Last year we fell in love with his simple range and his masterful (for a young designer) knowledge of draping. Gary Bigeni 2010 didn't disappoint. In a packed-out show in the Cargo Theatre, Bigeni delivered a gorgeous range in a sweet palette of pastels; lilac, peach, pink, caramel and white, that took his trademark style a step further with the introduction of leather pieces and a series of simple angular silhouettes that screamed "Wear me!" We loved it! Goosebumps...

After the show, lunch with Carrie and Carla at the nearby Thai restaurant Sailor's Thai. Awesome food accompanied by a group of squeaky and colourful parakeets in the tree beside the balcony. Courgette flowers. Perfect. We managed to have a couple more business meetings in the afternoon before heading down to The Ivy to meet up with our Australian editor, the one-and-only Patsy Galore, Paul Bui and Rupert Tapper for a drink at the pool-side bar on the complex roof. This bar has history and prior to meeting up with MAC's Tatum Savage and the SST's Katie Newton for our last dinner of the week, it became clear why. Aussie wide boy businessmen outnumbered women 5 to one and the vibe was more meat market than share market, as the environment would suggest. Thankfully, we moved next door to the absolutely fabulous Italian restaurant Ucello for one of the best dinners we've had in living memory; simply scrumptious food, wine and company.

The next morning we flew home to a copy of Black 12. Happiness. Once again thanks to MAC, our Sydney friends, and NMI for being such gracious hosts. We had a ball...

Black 12 Covers

Gidday cobbers, had a slight technical glitch between camera and comp today but have it sorted so will post some more RAFW malarkey later tonight. We loved Stolen's last night...off to Friedrich Gray shortly.

In the meantime, here are the two Black 12 covers promised a few days back....

RAFW - Day 1

Rosemount Australian Fashion Week 2010 kicked off in fine style last night at Luxe Studios in Darlinghurst. MAC Cosmetics hosted a beautiful dinner in a room which had been dressed entirely in paper by local 'paper engineer' Benja Harney. Harney's paper installations were gorgeous as were the models from Chadwicks posing very patiently on plinths wearing paper dress creations by New York artist/costumier Zaldy. The degustation dinner by Brent Savage from Bentley Restaurant and Bar was matched by the service, or never ending lack thereof! Thanks to Jodie Matthews and the crew at MAC for starting the week off in style.

We missed Ginger & Smart this morning but heard it would have been well worth a look, ditto Seventh Wonderland. Once we had all of our phone calls, emails and meetings done we did make it down on site to have a glass of bubbly with Aussie fashion editor Paul Bui and the rather large contingent of New Zealand fashion peeps that are somewhat ubiquitous around the Overseas Passenger Terminal. After lunch at an Irish pub in The Rocks we wandered along to Zambesi in the Cargo Theatre alongside Stolen Girlfriends, Kate Sylvester and Ryder Salon crews, Margi Robertson and Isaac Hinden-Miller among others. On the slightly short Cargo Theatre runway, Zambesi was stunning. A gorgeous range of women's and men's fashion that was both utterly wearable and deeply desirable. As usual with Zambesi the range showcased the label's unique blending of fashion, fabric, finesse, flow and there is no other way to describe it, art - making the New Zealand crew rather proud. Bruno Findlay (bottom) looked especially smart in his backstage gears where he was helping mum Marissa.

Tonight we're off to Stolen Girlfriend's Club off-site in suburban Alexandra. We'll pop some piccies up in the morning...

Black 12 - Paul Empson shoots Masha Novoselova in Paris

Can't wait to catch up with Paul Empson this week. Here, he shoots Masha Novoselova, styling by the inimitable June Nakamoto, hair by Romina Maneti, make-up by Tina Roivainen.

Black 12 - Michael Schwartz shoots Alana in New York

Here's our cover girl Alana Zimmer shot by Michael Schwartz, styled by Elizabeth Sulcer, make-up by Valery Gherman and hair by Tuan Anh Tran.

Black 12 - Michael Schwartz shoots Sharon in L.A

Well we're happy to say that Black 12 is now at the premises of our esteemed printer McCollams in Auckland's Mairangi Bay. It's nice to smell the ink again. Sorry we haven't blogged a lot lately, we simply haven't had the time. The mag will be on sale around Auckland next weekend and nationwide the following Monday. Next week, we are going to Rosemount Australian Fashion Week as guests of Mac Cosmetics. There are some great designers showing over the ditch so we'll blog as often as possible. In the meantime, here's a few spreads from the issue, we'll post a cover on the weekend.

This image is from a spread by New York photographer Michael Schwartz. Shot in L.A, in a park at night with model Sharon Van der Pas. It features styling by Tasha Cain, hair by Martin-Christopher Harper and make-up by Carolina Deli-Tesch.

Black 12 - Russ Flatt and Rachael Churchward 20 pager

We go to print next week with Black 12, and we're quietly excited about it. It's a solid issue with a certain amount of fierceness in the fashion, H&M and modelling and in many places is bravely, proudly, black & white. Not this shoot though, the biggest we have yet run in Black at 20 pages and a sunburst of colour all round. Photographer Russ Flatt, Black fashion director Rachael Churchward, hair editor Greg Murrell and make-up artist Margo Regan shot a selection of New Zealand's newest, freshest models over three days in Auckland's Waitakere region. The beautiful youth of Aotearoa... We will pop up a cover and a couple of other images next week.

No Soho, No Mojo...

We've fallen in love with local wine label Soho. The brainchild of Rachael (with an A!) Carter, Soho is a quality collection of wine that embodies a passion for life and entertainment, and like Carter herself, has more than a passing interest in all things fashionable. The wines themselves are distinctive and premium, created by specialists in their realm. Grant Taylor, the Godfather of NZ Pinot Noir who has been nominated the world's best Pinot Noir maker not once, but twice, is, you guessed it, behind the sumptuous Pinot. Winemakers like Dave Clouston, Pete Turner and Russell Wiggins account for the equally yummy other varieties in the range with a new Syrah from Waiheke, the Valentino Syrah, the eight Soho wine, due shortly. We are particularly interested by Soho's marketing and positioning strategy which draws upon the Soho crew's love of fashion. Wines are named after the style and design of some of the world's best designers; look out for the McQueen Couture Pinot which represents Grant Taylor at the top of his game and the billboard campaign and ad in the upcoming issue of Black which showcases the loveliness of this amalgamation between two of the world's most stylish industries - fashion and wine.

We have 2 x two packs of Soho Wines to give away to Blacklog readers - a McQueen Pinot and a Marlborough Sav. The first people to email grant@blackmag.co.nz with the words; No Soho, no Mojo in the subject line and a delivery address (NZ readers only sorry and 18 years +) will win themselves a classy tipple.

The Spark That Shines

Converse, that global purveyor of sneakers and all things sole-ful has launched a new online creative initiative called "Spark." Aimed at developing creative talent from rising artists and musicians around the world it is already taking shape as an interesting amalgam of artistic expression. Twenty-four global artists from a diverse range of places will feature their work on the Converse Spark site and many are experimental or just plain unique in nature. Of the five or six online so far we particularly like the mad Mexican muso Ulises (above). Most of the films are really well made, and going through them is like a wee trip around the globe - an insight into them and their culture. Keep an eye on them as they are posted here.

Huffer Pop!

The Huffer crew are staging a bit of a pop-up store this Saturday, starting, apparently, at 3.33am. Much later, at 7pm, Clap Clap Riot will play accompanied by DJ TV Stevie. We've just completed a 6 page interview and story with the guys for Black 12 and one of the topics we discussed was a shoe range called ToBe which they're pretty excited about. The range was created in Wellington and built in Indonesia using premium Wanganui leathers and the three guys behind the label will be in attendance on Saturday, along with the shoes of course. So pop along to the Huffer/ToBe store on Saturday but maybe have some breakfast first and wait until it is daylight!

Workshop BMW show 4: Christchurch

Elza and Nellie both at Ali McD

Harriet and Clare @ Portfolio

The day presented a few challenges but the evening at Jeff Gray BMW Christchurch, went without a hitch. The local MAC make-up crew and True Grit Hair Spa provided great looks and the models from Ali McD and Portfolio rocked the catwalk. We also developed a new affection for Allan Scott's 2008 Pinot Noir! Thanks to Matt and the crew at the dealership for being so accommodating, Pip and Greg at BMW and of course Chris & Helen Cherry and Rebekah at RCM.

Below: Clementine & Katie @ Portfolio

Mary @ Ali McD

Felix @ Ali McD

Tom & Kayleigh @ Ali McD

Oliver and Jonah @ Portfolio

Ilish @ Ali McD

Ali McD's son Elvis looked hot!

Olivia @ Ali McD

6 girls and Sam @ Ali McD

Budding photographer Felix