Chuck Got it Right!

When Chuck Taylor traversed the US somewhat wantonly in his Cadillac for the best part of last century, he did so on a unique and somewhat stylised mission. Fully (ankle) patched, and golf bag in tow, Chuck literally drove from town to town, and from golf course to golf course, sleeping in the back seat of his white Cadillac and talking to anyone that listened about his quality footwear to anyone willing to try it - and luckily, many were willing. The Chuck Taylor was then, and still is now, the most iconic footwear of all time. Chuck, an average basketball player from Akron, Ohio, was a man who had suffered poor footwear for far too long. He was evangelical in his belief that he could create a basketball shoe - nay, an athletic shoe - for all people, for all time. He preached the good word on the matter, literally door-to-door and his initial invention, the Chuck Taylor All Star, in turn inducted a posthumous Chuck into the deeply revered All Star Basketball Hall Of Fame - many years after he left the "court," as such. So what would have Chuck made of the new Chuck Lights range which has more than tickled our tootsies here at Black? A lot, we think. Chuck was clearly all for making shoes stronger, lighter, less cumbersome and as good-looking as possible, which this range so clearly is. The Chuck Lights range, a perfect slam dunk and available from all good shoe stores in NZ and Australia.

Our Russ On Make Me A Supermodel

Last November we were shooting a twenty page men's shoot in the countryside at Mangawhai, North Auckland, when our photographer Russ Flatt received what seemed like an important call on his cellphone. After 10 minutes he got off the line with a wry smile on his face, looking quite content. "Who the hell was that?" we asked, somewhat nosily and inquisitive. "Someone from Make Me A Supermodel, a reality TV show in New York" he replied "they want to me to be the photographer on their next series." "Oh, yeah right we said, not knowing what "Make Me A Supermodel " was or why they'd want Russ Flatt, a NZ photographer. It wasn't until we watched the actual show on TV2 on Friday night that we realised just what the role entailed. Russ, resplendent in a stylish green jersey wasn't just a natural in his assumed position, he acted like a seasoned television professional, and to our unexpected amusement, did a great job of playing the power photographer bristling with Reality TV chutzpah. As Reality TV Magazine observed "Something about the men’s shoot isn’t quite right, but the pics are gorgeous as soon as Russ SHOOS Jay and Casey out of the frame. All of the girls manage to stay in the picture, but, according to Russ, “Katy had a problem focusing.” Russ really does have "shoo-ability" but we knew that. Obviously Tyra Banks and the show producers liked his style too, as Russ has now completed the same photographer role for the Aussie version of Make Me A Supermodel and is right now being lined up for a second series in New York.

Russ, Ngati Hau, has spent 9 years living and working in New York as a fashion photographer before returning to Aotearoa to care for his unwell Mum a couple of years ago.With a solid background in the Big Apple, it is not surprising that he seemed to fit in so well with the show. Either way, we here at Black, are still very impressed, and rather proud...of our cuzzy clicker....

Sony Black Eye At Air NZ Fashion Week 2008

Dress up, look good and win. Simply turn up with your glad rags on at Air NZ Fashion Week 2008 and one of our Sony Alpha photographers might ask to snap you and your outfit. Each morning here on BlackLOG we'll be running the best dressed, in the opinion of Black Creative Fashion Director Rachael Churchward, from the previous day. The snazziest dressers will feature in a four page spread in Issue 9 of Black Magazine and Rachael's choice of the day's best dressed will win a Sony E-Series Walkman.


If we take your photo it’s because you look hot so we might also give you some cool, cleansing Radox Smoothie shower gel to say thanks. So dress up, be confident and we’ll find you.



What is Sony Black Eye?

A collaboration between Black Magazine and Sony Alpha - in this case, the place where digital photography meets fashion and style. Over the past two years Sony Black Eye has developed from a two page emerging photographer spread in Issue 1 of Black Magazine, to 12 full pages of digital excellence in the forthcoming Issue 9. We're continuing on with our support of emerging photographers and this issue we are showcasing the talents of photographers Phillip Simpson, Joshua Jones and Himiona Grace. In recognition of the leaps and bounds that Sony’s Alpha range of cameras is making in the digital photography world, Sony Black Eye celebrates emerging photography and we are adding a fourth double page spread featuring the work of an emerging talent by also featuring the work of the Sony Photography Scholarship recipient 2008.

Sneaky Squizz - Erdmann Fashion Issue 9

As we mentioned below, Robert Erdmann has shot with our New York Fashion Editor Dean Voykovich for this issue of Black. Here is a sneaky quizz from the 16 page spread just in...

A Wolf, That Looks Like A Librarian (with a gun), In Sheep's Clothing

Talk about instant fame! Arriving from the Wild North West on a farm bike in her patriotic (probably Photoshopped) bikini is Sarah Palin, flaming Alaskan Governer and sudden running mate to John McCain on the Republican ticket. A potential US Vice President. Looking at this picture and reading about her in the past week, she probably shot the aforementioned wolf - or maybe one of her gun toting, fag-chuffing buddies in the background accounted for it - but there's no doubt the rotting carcass will still be out there. In the BUSH. Like all things Bush, Republican and US administration of the past 8 years, what they say is not what you get.

The NZ Herald, or rather their relieved correspondents, were effusive in their praise of Palin and her eagerly consumed VP speech at the Republican conference this week. It was a speech which was quickly considered a satisfactory answer to the history-making speeches of Obama and the Clintons, and the general staging of the Democractic conference in Denver, Colorado a week earlier. No contest I would have thought, but many other commentators here and abroad have been quick to jump on the New Republican bus, albeit a three day old one since Palin's instatement. As if to prove that nothing much is changing in the Republican camp, I watched this week as McCain embraced Palin's 17 year old daughter Bristol (siblings include Track, Trig, Willow and Piper) and her partner Levi Johnston, 18, at an airport. It was a tender PR moment after the couples unplanned pregnancy had threatened to usurp Palin's speech the next day. Palin and husband Todd (the First Dude) looked on encouragingly as McCain clenched the children's arms as if to say "Here we all are, honest and real. Our kids, good kids, the future of America."

Whatever (Old Dude). In reality it appears to be the same old, same old. Father-to-be Johnston recently described himself thus on his MySpace page, although it has now been blocked: "I'm a fucking redneck. You fuck with me and I will kick your ass!" He also says that "he doesn't want kids." Ahem. McCain's own insipid speech, following Palin's 'triumphant' oratory, attempted to somehow suggest that the Republicans, after 8 years in office, would be bringing change.

As the billboard should say..McCain/Palin. Change. Yeah Right.

Robert Erdmann To Shoot For Black!

OK, we're excited. As a portrait photographer Robert Erdmann is probably second only to Annie Leibowitz with a list of celebrity editorials and covers as along as your (tripod) arm. As a fashion and beauty photographer his body of work - including some 40 covers - places him in that elite group of photographers that breathe the rarified air of Steven Meisel, Bruce Weber or Mario Testino - see our poll here to the right. Tomorrow he flies to New York with his team of assistants and operators in tow to meet up with our New York Fashion Editor Dean Voycovich. Together they will shoot a 16 page, two boys/one girl editorial for Black. It seems Robert saw Black Magazine and decided he really wanted to shoot for us. We couldn't be more honoured and will be expanding the size of Issue 9 by 16 pages...

The Native (Agent) Is Restless

We recently came across a blanket and cushion made by the very clever director of Native Agent, Rona Ngahuia Osborne, and fell in love with her melding of colonialism and Maoridom. Her work is beautifully crafted, hand stitched and whilst rooted in days gone by is wholeheartedly contemporary. Osborne began as an artist within the Indicator Studios collective in the late nineties before opening Native Agent with husband Dan Mace in late 2003. Native Agent is described as being a ‘purveyor of quality New Zealand Made designwares and clothing’ and is a regular Kingsland stop off for those with a sense of design, art and style.

It is great to see then that the couple are expanding the opportunity by opening The Showroom, a new art, design and furniture space situated below Native Design at 507b New North Rd. The Showroom opens on Sept 8 featuring new work from Native Agent, furniture from Bob McDonald, innovative shelving solutions from Whangarei based Hold, lighting from Rebecca Asquith and Cicada studios trained David Moreland, ceramic work from Studio Ceramics, one-off pieces from innovative upcyclers The Boiler Room, and more.

As Native Agent themselves say “We’re really excited about where this could lead creatively. The Showroom is a space where art can be functional and design can be frivolous – what a fantastic brief!”

Indeed.

Optimal Option

Health and well being can be a subjective thing and whilst we have long held the belief that a balanced diet and exercise are the foundation of a sound mind and body, we have also been open to the concept of dietary supplements. A plethora of products are now jostling for space on the shelves of health shops, chemists and supermarkets around the world. But how many of these products are really that good for you? How many make any sort of significant difference or, to put it bluntly, are worth the sometimes exorbitant price you pay for them?

Thus when we were given the opportunity to try out the Mannatech Optimal Health range it's fair to say that whilst we weren't exactly sceptical, we weren't yet convinced. We've now finished all four bottles and the verdict is straightforward; we want more please sir.

The company's strapline is "enriching the quality of life" and that's a fair description of the products here, used in tandem, on a daily basis. The company's core product, the patent-no-longer-pending Ambrotose is basically a blend of specific sources of plant saccharides that provides support for the immune system. The Ambrotose AO product pictured above takes this a step further and combines a series of antioxidants with the Ambrotose foundation and when it comes to dietary supplements, antioxidants are king.

The PLUS caplets provide endocrine support i.e healthy glands - an essential part of optimal health. Components wild yam, amino acids and beta-sitosterol are simply nutrients that help support your endocrine system.

Of all of the products we wondered if PhytoMatrix (patent-pending) was the most effective. The mix of natural vitamins, plant-sourced minerals and standardised phytochemicals certainly provided mind and body with an extra zing and is preferable in construct to other supplements formulated with synthetic chemicals.

Last but not least, the Gl Pro kept the old digestive system running smoothly. The product contains microscopic lifeforms or bacteria, known as probiotics. These miniscule creatures break down food and process waste. Welcome on board little guys!

Another of Mannatech's philosophys is Intelligent Supplementation and that kind of sums up how the products make you feel. Switched on body and mind.

Stockist information: New Zealand 1300 361 878 – ask for ‘business development’

www.mannatech.com

SuperCollider

Digitalism video still

Collider. It sits somewhere between gliders and collision, or perhaps, collaboration. It was recently brought to our attention that Andrew van der Westhuyzen, co-head honcho of Sydney creative collective Collider (and yes, that was an unexpectedly challenging mouthful of alliteration) would be speaking at the Semi-Permanent design symposium in Auckland. A hothouse of commerically-sustained artistic projects, Collider is quite simply a good idea factory. Full interview and profile in Issue 9.

Top Ten Indie Tunes At Black HQ This Week

1. Pop Levi - Dita Dimone - stylish fat groove from Ladytron's Scouser bassman, love the vocal and his style [see above] borders on consummate
2. Jim Noir - Happy Day Today - another stylish Pom (so many of them!) this chap, real name Alan Roberts popped out the very tidy Jim Noir self-titled album in April this year. His production is somewhere between Phil Spector and ELO but the music is better than that.
3.Bat For Lashes - What's A Girl To Do? - Born in Pakistan in 1979, Natasha Khan studied film and music and suggests her debut album Fur & Gold was inspired by dreams of black horses and Joan Of Arc
4. Chad VanGaalen - Willow Tree - sitting prettily on a bed of plucky banjo this lovely ditty echoes other Canadians in (a wistful) Arcade Fire or the vocal theatrics of Antony & The Johnsons but we like it more than recent efforts by those two at least.
5. Computer vs. Banjo - Give Up On Ghosts - not very computerish at all but maybe a little bit banjo, this would sound good down the barn stomp at 5am.
6. of Montreal - Id Engager - catchy pop electro disco, the type that is everywhere at the moment but the nobbly little bassline from these Georgia, USA natives makes hard to put down.
7. Sunny Day Sets Fire - Lack Of View - that could be the best band name in years although there was a legendary Maori guitraist who probably wouldn't agree. This is a cute tune for the Hong Kong/Italian duo out on Brikabrak Records. Nice all round.
8. Ida Maria - Louie - Ida (below) is Norwegian, so yes; poppy, bouncy, bright. Fun.


9. Santogold, Pharrell Williams & Julian Casablancas - My Drive Thru - the latter does most of the vox I am guessing but just like Ida Marie, it's catchy as...
10. The Late Greats - He's Not It - super nice guitar sounds and a super catchy hook from the table-tennis loving English-that-sound-somehow-American band.

Vision On - Wella Trend Vision 2008

Gold Young Visionary 2008, Jason Chong Li, Stephen Marr, Newmarket

The Wella Trend Vision Awards is an annual award that matches the creativity, vision and skill of some New Zealand's top stylists with the Wella trends of the season - Couture Allure, Fashion Lyrics, Mineral Slendour and Wonderland being the trends of choice for 2008. Contestants are required to interpret the trends, submit an editorial quality image of their work and recreate the look at the Wella studios last Sunday to then present to the judges and award attendees that night. Judges Fiona Hawtin (Fashion Quarterly), Caroline Barron (Nova), Amber Dreardon (M.A.C) and Cathy Davis (Cathy Davis Hair & Spa Salon) had to oversee two sections; Master Visionary (over 30) and Young Visionary (under 30) and choose a Gold, Silver and Bronze in each category. And the winners are:

Master Visionary:

Gold: Stephanie Hosking, Toni & Guy, Newmarket
Silver: Miguel Lledo, Vada
Bronze: Tiffany Jane Clarke, Maelstrom Hairdressing

Young Visionary:

Gold: Jason Chong Li, Stephen Marr Skin & Body, Newmarket
Silver: Danielle Falconer, Dharma
Bronze: Yoshi Chung-Yang Su, Buoy

A speechless Jason Chong Li, whose work judge Cathy Davis said "encompassed everything we were looking for and more" will soon be winging his way to Lisbon, Portugal to compete in the International Trend Vision Awards. That event, however, may leave him speechless too as he will have to perform live against 72 other contestants in front of 3,500 people.
Silver Young Visionary, Danielle Falconer, Dharma

Gold Master Visionary award winner Stephanie Hosking was equally surprised about her gong suggesting that she was happy to be a finalist prior to thinking she must have made second with her winning creation which was 'inspired by a stint working in steel construction in Scandanavia." Her prize? A trip to London no less.

Congrats to all of the winners at another Wella winner, the 2008 Wella Trend Vision Awards.

Gold! Gold! Andrew! Andrew! Fro! Fro! Medal! Medal!

Issue 3 of Black Magazine we featured these guys Andrew Andrew for their clever Nu Yorican art antics. They've gone on from there to this piece of umm, blip funk:



... as commercial, yet arty farty artists they know no boundaries, only two-tone yellowness for M.A.C Gold Fever, complimented by square fro's in undeniable haute trackiness...groovy, groovy...

This Charming Man wishes to seduce This Sensual and Beautiful Woman

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent is quite simply one of the great fragrances of recent times and most likely the first scent to come to mind when thinking of the Far East. How fitting then, as we are bathed in all things oriental and immersed in the red and golden hues of Olympic China's dragion, that we find ourselves revisiting this classic parfum in it's newest incantation, Opium and Opium pour Homme, Eau d'Orient 2008.
The passionate scents are again housed in the classic Opium bottle which this time carries graduated shading, calligraphy and poetic lines from the oldest known collection of Chinese poetry, The Book Of Odes - a tome dating back some four thousand years and containing over 300 odes, poems and hymns:

She: "This sensual and beautiful woman"

He: "A charming man wishes to seduce her"

Straight forward yet sensual, both scents are from the 'Oriental Fresh' family. Opium Eau D'Orient (women's) features top notes of mandarin and Calabrian Chinotto, middle notes of Chinese magnolia, star jasmine and myrrh and bottom notes of vanilla, patchouli and amber. Exotic, erotic, Eastern. The Opium pour Homme Eau D'Orient features top notes of grapefruit, star anise, bergamot, middle notes of fresh ginger, white pepper and nutmeg and bottom notes of vetiver, Morrocan amber and sandalwood.

YSL define the seductive bottles and scent as "the Calligraphy of Desire." Sensual, seductive, desirous...the Opium of the Orient and worthy we're sure, of a gold medal.

It's Sunny In Them Thar Hills...

Ok. So The Hills reality TV star Lauren Conrad worked for Teen Vogue and shock horror, made the quite outrageous move from Laguna Beach to the Hills, but the ubiquitous MTV starlet clearly has some fashion sense despite some of her friends looking like fried bananas or teenage Playboy bunnies. She is regularly, nay, daily it seems, snapped in a pair of Karen Walker sunglasses, eyewear of choice for many a Hollywood star these days. As you can see in these pictures Lauren is decked out in not just any old KW specs but the re-issue of Karen's most successful sunglass ever, the Annie - inspired by the eccentricities of Diane Keaton's Annie Hall.

Apparently in the new season due to launch on US TV this week Lauren struggles to balance the rising tensions between her room mates - it's a cauldron in there! Lauren, of course, will be suitably attired in chilled out KWs and is sure to handle the heat...

The Silo's BARE Aagain

Leading Auckland theatre company, Silo, are about to revisit the play that catipulted the company into the limelight. Bare, the seminal Toa Fraser production which launched the careers of Fraser, Madeline Sami and Ian Hughes in 1998 is getting a rework from master director Oliver Driver. The play which features two actors, but fifteen charcters, will showcase the talents of two talented newcomers from another quality Silo creation The Ensemble Project. Morgana O'Reilly (NZ Listener and Metro Magazine Emerging Actress 2007 and familiar to many from recent aprearances in The Jackie Brown Diaries) and the equally-likely-to-win-awards Curtis Vowell will bring a certain 'freshness' to this iconic piece of NZ theatre. The play is described as Auckland's answer to Woody Allen's Manhattan and features a broad range of interesting AK types - from buff gymsters, Fijian patriachs and wanton street kids to chain-smoking divorcees. In the re-staging of the play Driver has opted for the construct of the theatre pantheon (or perhaps just the green room) as a metaphor for life - the stage littered with theatre detritus from water cooler to office notice board. Delivered in a tag-team style of collected story-telling, the actors transport us to lunch rooms, kitchens and candy bars around the city in a radical rework of the original production, which the company says "will enable those who have seen the original work to reconsider it". The production will also tour to Hamilton, Wellington and Nelson after Auckland.

Bare by Toa Fraser
October 8-18, 2008
Herald Theatre, THE EDGE
Mon & Tues @ 7pm;Wed-Sat @ 8pm
Bookings: THE EDGE Ticketing on 0800 BUY TICKETS or www.the-edge.co.nz

Written by TOA FRASER
Directed by OLIVER DRIVER
Designed by JEREMY FERN
Featuring MORGANA O'REILLY & CURTIS VOWELL

Ciao Baby, You're Under Arrest

Only in Italy! It seems the ruling Berlusconi Government has become a little paranoid about what it forsees as 'security threats' and is giving mayors of Italy's numerous regions and towns carte blanche to create their own 'security laws'. Italians have always been known for their flair, creativity and sense of fun so it is a little humourous to read about the veritable giant pizza of new laws that have already been introduced to basically control, err...fun. Planning to sun yourself on Olba Beach, Sardinia? Fine, just don't light up a fag or you're coming down the nick to be slapt with a 360 Euro fine. All kids must be muzzled and staked to the ground on beaches in Eraclea near Venice as those dastardly, extremely dangerous sandcastles are now banned for fear that they may 'obstruct the passage along the beach'. Scarily, it is now also illegal to wander away from most beaches in your bikini or shudder the thought, budgie smugglers - again, the cops will shackle you. Sophia Loren and Gina Lollabrigida will be shaking in their towelling two pieces. It is not just the beach though where casual humans risk the wrath of the fun police. Parks are dangerous too. In the city of Novara, two people can sit on a park bench and canoodle but if a third joins them, and it's after 11pm, all three of them are suddenly breaking the law. No worries in Viareggio though, as many people as can fit on a park bench are able to do so, until...one of them puts their foot on said park bench - resulting in an instant fine. Worst of all bag ladies and bird lovers, those most dangerous of citizens, are no longer able to feed the pigeons in the city of Lucca or they could end up hundreds of euros poorer. The good news is that in true Italian style many of the new laws will probably never be enforced, they're just there to show that something has been done to address the 'security issues' but woe betide the pigeon-loving threesome having a smoke on the park bench, having wandered up from the beach in their togs!

Accumulating Cummulus

Cloud Cult. What a good idea. Clouds are special, clouds are unique, clouds are us...more than that, they're a nice vox and keys band with loads of puffy soft sounds and precipitation! Feel Good Ghosts (Tea Partying Through Tornadoes) 2008 " out now

Great, Great Songs Number 5

Creep, by Radiohead, 1992.

Karen Souza's recent paean, a cover to end all covers, has only really been eclipsed by The Cure's panegyric cover of this truly great song, which let's be honest, was pretty much another cover to end all covers. So why so much musical greatness? The original is quite simply truly great to start with. Guitars, angst, bass, vocals, angst, drums, pop. Song. Interestingly Thom Yorke, the original Creep, may have been in a band called Headless Chickens at the time the song transmorgified into musical shape. Here's what Wikipedia says about the possibility:

Jump to: navigation, search

For the New Zealand band of the same name, see Headless Chickens.

The Headless Chickens were a five-piece melodic punk band from Exeter, England, comprising at various times Thom Yorke (guitar and vocals), Simon "sHack" Shackleton (bass and vocals), John Matthias (violin), Laura Forrest-Hay (violin), Martin Brooks (drums), Andy Hills (bass) and Lindsey Moore (drums), they were well known on the Exeter punk scene in 1989. In June 1989 they released their first single, "I Don't Want To Go To Woodstock", on the Hometown Atrocities EP, along with tracks from three other bands. This is believed to be Thom Yorke's first ever released recording, on which plays lead guitar and sings backing vocals.

The Headless Chickens performed to packed out houses in and around Exeter during this period, including highly acclaimed solo shows and supporting acts such as Eat and De La Soul.

Their "poly-sensual" shows often involved avant-garde visual experimentation, with the occasional bizarre act of total nudity.

While he was in Headless Chickens, Thom Yorke's earlier band, "On A Friday", was mostly in a state of suspended animation; after he left Exeter, On A Friday restarted, eventually becoming Radiohead. Headless Chickens mutated into the techno-influenced Flickernoise (led by "sHack") who later changed their name to Lunatic Calm in 1996.

Mutated indeed...

Know How, Can Do, Well Done....

When Louis Vuitton, the world's leading artisan of luxury travel goods launched it's Tambour line of watches in 2002, fans of horology around the globe sat up and took note. The strength, character and volume of the original Tambour line was supplemented by the release of the original "Tambour Monogram" Tourbillon in 2004, a classic concept that further suggested Louis Vuitton as a watchmaker, was here to stay. We eagerly featured a number of the Tambour range in our Issue 3, Time Is Now shoot so it was with considerable excitement that we arrived at the Louis Vuitton V.I.P room to view the new seasons watches yesterday. We were warmly welcolmed by the knowledgable and endearing Alain Huy, Senior Merchandising Manager, Watches & Jewellery, Louis Vuitton Asia Pacific and the equally hospitable and endearing Jimmy Peh, Assistant Public Relations Manager, Watches & Jewellery, L.V.A.P. From presentation to packaging, it is impossible to ignore the breadth of Louis Vuitton style.

The Louis Vuitton Auckland store is one of the first in the Asia Pacific region to feature a specialised watch area so it is apt that the store is also about to offer the full range of fabulous new LV timepieces from September through to Christmas. There are two new Tambour lines:

The "Tambour in Black" LV277 or "Black Force" (top) is a digital analog chronograph, the first of which was launched in 2006. Using the prestigious LV277 movement, "Black Force" is our kind of watch. Set in a 44mm 'black steel' case, this isn't just any old housing, the darkened steel being up to four times more resistant than classic steel. Nice and black, nice and strong.

The "Tambour Silver Dust" GMT automatic watch, is a travel watch fitted with a sparkling "silver dust" dial and featuring anti-reflection sapphire glass. The Silver Dust is a refined timepiece, both functional and aesthetic.
Marc Jacobs, Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton is bringing a real sense of quality and style to the table with the "Emprise" collection (above}. Jacobs, in his inimitable sense of interpretative style has referenced the company's functional history and authentic tradition as a luggage-maker by including distinctive elements of that history to the range. Historic symbols such as the latches, corners and riveting on the classic Vuitton trunk are paraphrased ingeniously throughout the Emprise range, then again we'd expect nothing less from the fashion genius.

Now, we are pretty sure there are a bunch of Russian Oligarchs reading this right now, sitting in their expansive holiday homes on the Cote D'Azur digging the BlackLOG updates so the next watch will be of particular interest to you as the starting price is $165,000 Euro.
The new "Tambour Monogram" Tourbillon (above) is literally a 'made to order' masterpiece. The opportunity exists to personalise and create a timepiece that is as much you, as it is Louis Vuitton. From concept to delivery, the customer is included in the process, even being flown to the Swiss home of Louis Vuitton watches to immerse themselves in the process. The intricate, see-through and highly unique watch is very rare and so special that only half a dozen can be made each year. Roman Abramovich, perhaps you could dial one up now...

Alain started the morning with a video of the watch creation process in Switzerland and it was enlightening - and pleasing - to see that it is still very much one of craftmanship, detail and ubiquitous human touch. Thanks to Alain and Jimmy for the inspirational insight into the world of "Haute Horologie." Keep an eye out for the very cute Christmas range on offer too...

Hot Buttered Legend

Is it Soul Men or Dead Men? What, with Isaac Hayes passing out on (or near) the treadmill yesterday, Bernie Mac passing on full-stop a few days back and Morgan Freeman nearly taking himself and the local bridge out, one has to wonder who is next from the Black, Old and Cool mafia. Both Hayes and Bernie Mac starred in Soul Men with the legendary chrome dome Hayes playing his High Priest Of Soul self. Although it is more than likely simply a coincidence, it does seem strange that all three have either kicked the bucket or swerved to miss it within the space of a week. Hayes, is a legend of soul and disco and at 65 more than likely had a bit to offer yet. As a seminal and foundation musician on the legendary Stax label, he broke plenty of ground when it needed breaking and with the release of Hot Buttered Soul (1969), Black Moses (1971) and the subsequent Shaft (1971) made huge statements about what it meant to be an urban black in a modern world that still resonate to this day. Hayes powerful singing style was quite simply strong, sexy, foundation rap music - although scarily - many kids these days only know him as Chef from South Park.

Who's the black private dick
That's a sex machine to all the chicks?
(Shaft!)
You're damn right

R.I.P Isaac Hayes.

The Sixth Scent

When we first got hold of Escentric 01 and Molecule 01, the two foundation scents from olfactory genius Geza Schoen, we weren't ready for the landslide of questions. "Excuse me, errm, what is that scent? Who's wearing..what are you wearing? Where did you get it? Where can I get it?" From bicycle couriers, shop girls and fashion models to middle-aged cafe owners and the odd aunty here and there, the questions kept on coming providing the wearer with a degree of satisfaction. Molecule 01 was a radical concept, a scent comprising basically only one element "ISO E Super", a foundation component of numerous everyday kitchen products and cleansers - not your average Paris fragrance lab where the piano is playing 1000 notes while scents bubble in gilded, golden vats component then! Nevertheless the aroma worked, and big time. So it is with much excitement that we anticipate the arrival of stage 2 of this fragrant success story. Just like Escentric 01 and Molecule 01, Escentric 02 and Molecule 02 are based upon a single ingredient with Escentric being the blended version and Molecule, the basic, indefinable radiance. However, this time rather than using ISO E Super as a base, the new range is founded upon ambroxan, an extract of the elusive, highly valuable ambergris.

To those who don't know, this fabulous raw material for the creation of perfumes is actually a discharge from sperm whales which tumbles around the ocean gathering strength of scent before washing up on the foreshore around the world. I know of people who have actually found the precious lumps, not too different in shape and size to pumice, whilst walking on the beach at Muriwai. Several thousand dollars later and they're now taking more beach walks than normal and carrying little knapsacks when they do. Unfortunately the outrageous cost of extraction from pure ambergris makes it impossible to include (in a perfume that most of us can afford) so Geza has once again put his thinking cap on and created a nature-identical aroma-molecule to mirror ambroxan, the best-smelling part of ambergris.

Escentric 02, adds vetiver and muscone, a lovely nature-identical musk to create a clear, clean scent that "dries down to something warm and sexy". We love it - and you can too - as we have two bottles of the precious scent to give away here on BlackLOG. They are available exclusively through Karen Walker in NZ at an RRP of NZ $215 per bottle, but you can be in with a chance to win simply by voting on our Great Fashion Photographers poll on the right hand sidebar of BlackLOG and then emailing grant@blackmag.co.nz with your choice or choices. Offer closes August 30 and we will draw the winners then.

Want: Chronicles of Never meets Graz

Gareth Moody's classically androgynous and absolutely essential Chronicles of Never range of apparel, jewellery, shoes and accessories has made a friend, and what an impressive friend it is. Graz Mulcahy has been called one of the eyewear world's most notorious arbiters of style, and he and Moody and have paired up to create CoN's immediately covetable debut eyewear range for Summer 08/09. Cleverly engineered from acetate and featuring oversized hinges and indestructible, scratch resistant lenses, they come in three unisex shapes and two colour/finish options of black and tortoise. They will be available in limited supply globally from next month, including a capsule collection at Barney's, New York.
As with many of Gareth’s creations, the only problem I foresee is choosing which ones, when and how many?

Mmmmmm....

...very much liking this new image from the folks at Helen Cherry/Workshop. It's telling us about the new season's collections in store and whilst we've always been Champions Of The Cherrys, this stable of labels [shit I'm a poet and I didn't know it] is just getting stronger and stronger. Whilst Workshop, Workshop Denim and Helen Cherry is as strong as ever, there's some incredible new season Miu Miu, See By Chloe, Marc By Marc Jacobs and many more world class labels in store that make the Workshop retail experience undeniably one of the best in NZ.

Without a doubt, currently the cherry on top of the shopping cake.

Workshop Newmarket, 18 Morrow Street, Newmarket
Workshop, City, cnr Vulcan Lane and High Street

Earth's Structural Secret

When we first spotted Gary Bigeni's Spring/Summer 2008/2009 collection its fair to say we were very impressed. In fact Fashion Director Rachael Churchward immediately responded with 'Beautiful. I need to get hold of this boy's work." The collection, inspired by the turning of the Earth and the ever-changing climatic conditions that we face, is indeed exciting for a new designer who up until recently was head designer for another talented Australian, Josh Goot. We love the panelling, pattern-making and subtle detail. Bigeni's signature look is identified by "his ability to create visual treats that are not comprimised by trends. Gary's penchant for silk jersey make his designs an art form that have their own clever structural secrets."


We couldn't agree more. He has attracted a fair bit of attention across the ditch too with legendary fashion guru Belinda Seper of The Corner Shop suggesting Bigeni is "the Australian Helmut Lang." Look out for a profile on Gary in the upcoming issue of Black Magazine.

Gary Bigeni is available in Australia at Belinda's Corner Shop, ELLE Boutique, Blood Orange and in New Zealand at Covet Design Gallery. Internationally he is stocked at Selfridges, CK Tang and American Rag.

De-Mey Zing

After researching and writing our Aaron De Mey stories for Black Magazine and MiNDFOOD, we are even more amazed at the breadth and depth of this New Zealand make-up maestro's work. Here we feature just one of many covers...

Very Sociable, Very Good

Photo: Larnie Nicolson

Every now and again in Auckland, a new bar opens that has just about everything right; quality space and design, top wines, beers, spirits and cocktails available, good music, lighting that doesn't offend and above all else, quality bar staff and service. Ponsonby Social Club has these key elements in spades. The two Johnnys behind the bar are always onto it and offer alternative wines or beers as an option, the food is simple, it won't break the bank but goes nicely with the bar choices and it's really nice to get table service in a bar, rather than just in restaurants. Positioned next to Auckland's all time great SPQR, the location is pretty sweet too.

We often find ourselves there between 5pm and 7pm whereafter the place can get rammed.

Love Ponsonby Social Club and it's indoor/outdoor ambience? Well, yes we do...

152 Ponsonby Road, Ponsonby, Auckland

Sneaky Squizz 2 - Fashion, Black Magazine, Issue 9

Sydney team James Demitri and Wil Ariyamethe explore the world of caravans, multiple wives and cotton long-johns in a place where middle America meets the Mormons and has consenting sex with the Quakers...Utah, coming soon

Word Of The Week - Sesquipedalian

Sesquipedalian \ses-kwuh-puh-DAYL-yuhn\, adjective:

1. Given to or characterised by the use of long words.
2. Long and ponderous; having many syllables.
3. A long word

Plus he has a weakness for what we can mischievously call sesquipedalian excess: Look out for such terms as "epiphenomenal,""diegetic" and "proprioceptive." - Jabari Asim, "Reel Pioneer", Washington Post, November 19, 2000

Or perhaps:

Sonny Bill Williams, a surprisingly intelligent footballer and no stranger to words on the field, lapsed into a powerful sesquipedalian chant when asked about his sudden, desecrating departure from the great game of rugby league; "antidisestablismentarianism, antidisestablishmentarianism...he roared" Laurie Daley, Big Words On League, 2008

Great, Great Songs Number 4

Ain't No Stopping Us Now by McFadden & Whitehead. This truly great track is about as uplifting, hopeful and positive as a song can get. Whilst this is the original, I think I prefer the slinky, shuffly, string-laden version by Risco Connection which I fell in love with when I bought the David Mancuso The Loft Volume 1 compilation box a few years back, itself a classic album of the good groove. McFadden & Whitehead, both of whom have sadly now passed on, nailed this tune with a classic bassline, orgasmic vocals and again, inspired melody from my favourite musical section, lovely, lovely strings. Disco, soul, funk, house? Yes, all of those things and more.

Hi I'm Garon, A Professional Gorilla

It's not often that an ad gets better with every viewing and being a former ad man, I know that is the ultimate aim of the curious amalgam that is advertising - to find the place where true creativity gallops along on the commercial horse - and everyone is happy. Iconic ads are gold for the advertiser and the viewer alike and these ads are almost always based on humour. Add the emotive in music and you just might have a winner. I first saw the Cadbury Dairy Milk ad on You Tube about six months ago and loved it. The ad originally aired on UK TV in August 2007 but - as is normal for Antipodeans living in the Shakey Isles - has only recently screened on NZ television. I have now seen it about six or seven times on the box and I'm finding myself increasingly entranced by its simple charms. I also find myself wondering about how it was made. Did they get Weta Digital in NZ to provide the King Kong head? What part is a guy in a gorilla suit and which parts are animitronics? Is the actor in the suit a real drummer?
Well it seems the man inside the suit is Garon Michael, a professional gorilla actor not a drummer at all who had to learn to drum the classic Phil Collins roll. The Superman lookalike has appeared in numerous hairy films including Congo, Instinct [Anthony Hopkins] and of course Planet Of The Apes alongside Mark Wahlberg. Michael says the Cadbury ad was "his most gruelling role yet" with no less than 40 ninety second takes required. Hot work in a hairy suit, although he had a video screen inside the head to work with. Fluids are a necessity and provided through a straw into the beast's head [which is covered in yak hair by the way] and the facial close ups are motorised and controlled by two puppeteers.

When asked what he thinks of the ad himself, the well-trained ape man sweetly replies " The sight of the gorilla drumming along to Phil Collins should make you smile, just like a slab of Dairy Milk."

Err...ummm..ugh.

Who Needs A Hot Toddy?

I don't think much needs to be said about Toddy's ridiculously cute fire engine red long johns, except that they look even better from the back. Not because that model has a fine ass (although I'm sure she does) but because they come replete with a fully functional bum flap with press stud closure... Available from www.toddy.com.au in unisex small, medium and large for just $120 + shipping ($8 in Oz and $28 everywhere else) they're firmly on my wishlist. So is a hot toddy which, for the uninitiated, is coffee or similar plus alcohol and a hearty dash of sweetness. Hello, lover.

Sneaky Squizz - Fashion Issue 9

The first of several sneaky views at the fashion coming up in Issue 9, the re-launch issue of Black Magazine, out September. I know she's my partner and that but I just think Rachael is ace...photo by Tim White, Hair & Make Up Virginia Carde, model Zuzanna...stay tuned for more

Glasses A La Galliano

To be honest, I assumed that the creative genius that is John Galliano would already have a line of eyewear, both sun and optical - but apparently not, because his brand spanking new partnership with Gruppo Marcelin has just been announced. Already home to Tom Ford and Roberto Cavalli's ranges, Galliano's visionary vison aids will add to the 600 styles and 5.5 million pairs already produced by the Italian heavyweights...

Holey Moley

Until today, I though that "Jennifer's Body" was a Hole song. I've just read, however, that it's also a new film starring Megan Fox (aka poor man's Angelina Jolie) and written by Diablo Cody, the former stripper that also wrote Juno. I absolutely loved Juno - didn't everyone? - but this just sounds ridiculous... "A possessed cheerleader turns into a killer who specialises in offing her male classmates. Can her plain Jane best friend save her from the satan worshipping rock band that are behind her demonic transformation?" Wowser.

So Frenchy, So Chic

I have a lot to say about porn and mens mags, and have had even more to say lately... Firstly, I was chuffed to hear that Australian Big Brother's busty Bianca had turned down a wad of cash to pose for Zoo Weekly (which is called Zoo because it's made by animals, for animals I'm sure) while I just read that Charlize Theron - who I have always considered a woman with the utmost dignity - has gotten her gear off for a number of publications. Now, to throw another spanner in the proverbial works, I have come across the French edition of Playboy. No silicone valley of the dolls giggling blondes on the cover, but muse of the moment, Lou Doillon. Apparently the aspirations of new editor Yan Ceh is to return to the glamour and seductiveness of the seventies. With arresting fashion, interesting celebrities and a healthy dash of brains balancing the requisite tits and arse, rumour has it that Ceh is giving Carine a run for her money. Ooh la la...