Lela Jacobs Winter 2012 Manifesto of Uncertainty

Developed during a time of obvious economic and social unrest and ultimately a time during which everyone is re-evaluating their personal ideals and their outlook on life, Lela Jacobs Winter 2012 collection entitled Manifesto of Uncertainty is therefore suggestive of the current state of flux our societies find themselves in; re-writing ones manifesto, so-to-speak.

BLACKlog Editorial #24 Leys Institute Gymnastics Club since 1906

Leys Institute Gymnastics Club, a community asset since 1906, situated in St Marys Bay in Auckland and run by husband and wife team Lynn and Warren Burroughs is being forced with no other option than to close down. After years of giving grace and poise to the surrounding community of children, adults and some of New Zealand's top athletes, Leys Institute Gymnastics Club's government funding has come to a halt.

Political Mother by Hofesh Shechter

Last night I saw something that may have possibly changed my life. The dance and music performance Political Mother put together by Berlin choreographer Hofesh Shechter. Having just won numerous awards for this work overseas, The International Arts Festival currently taking place in Wellington was on the money with bringing this one over.

Eden Mulholland Debut Solo EP 'Jesus Dont You Get My Jokes' Video

We love the Mulholland brothers, a fine bunch of musicians all doing some amazing work as of late. Here is a look at the first single's music video 'Shanty Town', from Eden Mulholland's debut solo EP entitled, 'Jesus Dont You Get My Jokes'. Coming out in Australia in May/June 2012. Beautiful imagery paired with one very cool track! Nice one Eden!!

Workshop Denim AW 2012 Campaign by Tim White and Jamie Huckbody

Photographer Tim White and stylist Jamie Huckbody combine brilliantly on the new Workshop Denim AW 2012 campaign. In a shoot that screams "rock'n'roll' a selection of great local models; Jasper and Christopher at Clyne, Rhianon at KHM, Sam, Amelia and Lili at Red 11 and Zac and Sakura at 62 Models show us their moves in no uncertain terms. Make-up by Virginia Carde, hair by Lauren Gunn at Stephen Marr. Both shoots feature in a beautiful new look book which very much leans toward the description 'book' - great to see some time and effort spent on that, it is very much a 'keepable' effort from both Workshop Denim and Helen Cherry and harks back to some of their great printed look books of years gone by. The release of the book is also perfectly timed with an expansive new website and blog which you can see here.

Helen Cherry AW 2012 Campaign Images

Here is an exclusive look at the Helen Cherry AW 2102 campaign images, shot by photographer Tim White and styled by London-based creative director and stylist, Jamie Huckbody. Huckbody collaborated very successfully with both Helen Cherry and Workshop Denim at last year's NZ Fashion Week show and these images were shot not long after with one of our favourite models, Taren Cunningham at 62 Models. Make-up by Virginia Carde, hair by Lauren Gunn at Stephen Marr.

Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Spring 2012 Video

Style and function. Meditation and effort. Yin and yang. Nike and designer Jun Takahashi of Undercover present the best of both worlds with the Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Spring 2012 Men’s collection and the first ever Women’s collection! This high-performance running gear harmonizes Nike’s technical innovation with cutting-edge style and traditional craftsmanship of the fashion industries finest.

In This Neck Of The Woods; GM for Lee

There has always been something of the bush ranger - a touch of the hirsute, itinerant Ned Kelly, the outsider walking gun-in-hand between the Eucalyptus and burning campfire - to Gareth Lauchlan Moody's fashion explorations. His influence on early Ksubi is legendary but it is really his absolute Australian-ness, seeping from every pore of his brilliant Chronicles of Never label that has really stamped a mark as a real design and conceptual talent. Clever then, that Lee, one of the world's great denim brands, opted to partner up with Moody to create a new line that celebrates the ethos of Chronicles and repositions that design thinking in a killer new range, GM for Lee. Here's the film to launch the collaboration, shot over several days in where else, but the Australian bush...

When 2D and Noodle met Chuck

Always a sucker for a good colab, Converse's iconic All Star brand might just have hit the nail on the head with their latest friendship, the Damon Albarn-led Gorillaz. Created from day one as an amalgam of music and design/animation, the Gorillaz have always leant heavily on the artistic skills of co-creator Jamie Hewlett, whose psuedo-fictional ensemble of 2D (lead vocalist, keyboard, and melodica), Murdoc Niccals (bass guitar and drum machine), Noodle (guitar, keyboard, and occasional vocals) and Russel Hobbs (drums and percussion) is quite simply a graphic masterpiece. The Gorillaz Chucks will be in store in March at Qubic Store Newmarket, Real Groovy - Amazon, Pat Menzies Auckland, Banks Shoe Lower Hutt, Inferno Whangarei and Void Dunedin. Perfect footwear for your Plastic Beach...

BLK #16 - On set: Mariah Jelena shoots Andrej Pejic

In 2008, Chadwick Models in Sydney sent us digis of a brand new, androgynous model called Andrej Pejic. We instantly fell in love with his incredible beauty and asked if they would fly him in for a shoot. The agency agreed and the editorial shot by Russ Flatt appeared in Issue 9 of Black. It was one of the first two shoots ever published of Andrej and he has since gone on to take the modelling world by storm, currently ranked #18 in the world of male modelling by Models.com. When the opportunity to shoot a cover, editorial and interview with Andrej for issue #16 of Black arose, we again, jumped at the chance. Photographer Mariah Jelena, stylist Kate Carnegie and hair/make-up maestro Justin Henry completed the shoot last week in Sydney and we are pretty excited about it. Here are some exclusive behind-the-scenes images from the shoot.

Interview with Model Renee Peters featured in Black #16

About to be featured in the next issue of Black magazine #16 is Red 11 model Renee Peters from NYC. We loved her so much we shot with her twice at Kingsize Studios with NZ photographer Russ Flatt. Here are some out takes of the Nashville model and Black team hard at work! We also got a little interview with the lovely Renee which you can read below!

Black NY Editor Valery Gherman's adventures with lions and (swimsuited) lionesses for Sports Illustrated's 2012 Swimsuit Issue

When it comes to sheer numbers looking at an editorial, it doesn't come much bigger than Sports Illustrated's Swimsuit issue, ask, er, Rachel Hunter. The video linked below has already received several billion impressions, as have the other behind-the-scenes videos on the S.I site and that is just for behind-the-scenes video clips. Black Magazine's New York editor Valery Gherman is the make-up artist alongside photographer Derek Kettela (who has shot six Black Magazine covers and delivered at least as many editorials) on several of the shoots with this year's models including; Irina Shayk, Kirby Griffen, Genevieve Morton and Cintia Dicker. Valery sent through the picture above during the shoot in Zambia - it was of course embargoed until now - and he clearly knows how to steer a white lion through the Zambian bush! Proud of you V!

Genevieve Morton in Zambia - 2012 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Video Player - SI.com

Richard Kavanagh hair directs Tribune Standard AW 2012 show at NYFW

Models prepped for a little 'bellringing' - photo: Ben Hider

After many years working with hair legend Guido at numerous fashion weeks around the world it was great to see Richard Kavanagh, Creative Director for Rodney Wayne - and he of the superbly tattooed sleeves - last week directing hair for Tawfik Mounayer's Tribune Standard show at NYFW. Mounayer has been a right-hand man to Izaac Mizrahi among others and is high on the radar of US Vogue who love to champion a new designer or two each season. This season in New York Tribune Standard was 'hot' enough to be given the unique opportunity to ring the New York Stock Exchange bell to announce the end of the week's trading, and the end of fashion week - a moment possibly viewed by a not insubstantial audience of 100,000,000 on CNN - replete with models dressed in TS and adorned with Kavanagh's signature knotted hair for the event. Nice work Richard and congrats on your first NYFW show as hair director...
Update: It transpires that Black NY editor Valery Gherman was also the make-up director on this show. Go the Kiwis!

At the NYSE - hair by Richard Kavanagh - photo: Ben Hider

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #23: Bente Hansen by Greg Novak

German model Bente Hansen flew into Auckland recently for a weekend of shooting. Photographer Greg Novak took the opportunity to team with stylist Chris Lorimer to capture her angular beauty for Blacklog. Hair and make-up by Sky Cripps-Jackson at Stephen Marr.

Shop One Night - This Thursday

Deadly Ponies/Viva bag

For those with a penchant for an online shopping bargain this Thursday night represents a landmark moment with the staging of NZ's first one-night-only online shopping event entitled Shop One Night. Instigated by online shopping site Shop What's New, a broad selection of NZ designers and fashionistas have collaborated to offer special one-off deals and creations at remarkable prices between 5pm and midnight, this Thursday only. Like a massive online NZ pop up store Shop One Night mirrors a global phenomenon created initially by US Vogue when the stalwart created Vogue's Fashion Night Out, which upon going online, became Vogue's Fashion Night In. Shoe designer Kathryn Wilson collaborating with Shorty Street star Kimberley Crossman and jewellery designer Boh Runga is just one example of the many colabs, offers, value-added gifts and demon prices on offer so visit the site and stand by on Thursday with your credit/debit cards to get the bargains and one-off gems...

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #22: Mary at KHM/RPD by David K Shields

Vintage blue rabbit fur jacket from Tango
Leather lace-up top by One Teaspoon

We love the way photographer David K Shields effortlessly brings out the best in models. Mary Maguet at KHM/RPD is present and glowing in this Blacklog editorial, styled by our good friend Ana McDonald.  Mary wears Zambesi, Kiri Nathan, One Teaspoon, Andrea Moore, Wunderkammer Jewellery, Peter Lang and a selection of pieces from Tango. Make-up by Stacy Lee-Ghin and hair by Derek Aaron Young.

Korowai by Kiri Nathan, silk dress from Modes

On Set: Ryder Salon Blacklog Editorial behind-the-scenes by Grant Fell

Virginia Carde's deft touch on Rosie's eyelid

Yesterday we shot with photographer Damien Van der Vlist - back in New Zealand after setting up camp in London - and the crew from Ryder Salon to capturing looks that are indicative of the salon's style. In late May Ryder Salon is joining the migration down to the Britomart precinct, a development which is giving Auckland a long overdue make-over in a town planning sense. Peter Cooper and his development organisation Cooper & Company should take a well-deserved bow for the style and quality the area now exudes; brilliant vision and town planning at its best. Rachael Churchward styled six models; Rhianon at KHM, Rosie at Nova, Ella, Felix and Seth at 62 and Lily at Clyne, whilst Virginia Carde weaved her inimitable magic with make-up. Hair of course by Greg Murrell with assistance from talented Ryder Salon stylists Nicholas Macaulay and Kerry. Grant Fell spent the afternoon generally getting in the way and taking these behind-the-scenes images. Watch this space over the next few weeks for the full editorial images from the day.

Nicholas Macaulay's final touches on Lily's hair.
Lily wears: Trenchcoat by Helen Cherry, shirt and tie by Workshop Denim

Casting, casting, casting

Asena at 62 Models: Photo- Charles Howells

For the past week we have spent quite a bit of time casting for BLK #16 and a number of other projects across six out of the seven main agencies in Auckland; Clyne, Nova, 62 Models, Red 11, KHM and N. Model Management. The brief was to see as many new faces as possible and we have to say we're excited by what we have seen. The level of great, interesting new models has been a step up from previous years with plenty of different faces and figures for different projects. Here is small selection of some of the brand new faces that we have been loving this week. Many more will appear in Black Magazine, here on Blacklog or across the various projects our company BLK NZ Ltd has under way. Thanks to all of the agencies, the models who attended, and Charles Howells who turned up with camera and lighting kit to most of the castings. Beautiful kids of Aotearoa everywhere!

Laura N at Red11: Photo - Charles Howells

Lily at Clyne: Photo - Charles Howells

BLK #16: Darren McDonald and Paul Bui shoot Emily Jean

Emily Jean test above and below by Zachary Handley

The shoots are rolling in for BLK #16, six complete with eight more under way - love a packed shooting schedule! The week before last our Australian senior fashion editor Paul Bui teamed once again with Darren McDonald to shoot soon-to-be-big Emily Jean at Chic Sydney. She has fabulous bone structure and in the few shots we have seen of her to date - including the shots by Darren and Paul - it is clear the camera clearly 'loves' her. Keep an eye out for her at New York Fashion Week.

Elliot Ward-Fear AW 2012 'Flame' collection - shot by Thom Kerr and starring Liv O'Driscoll

Drawing inspiration from "ancient Chinese warriors, medieval battle armour and 1970's science-fiction heroines", Elliot Ward-Fear's AW 2012 collection, aptly entitled 'Flame' supports the belief of many that Ward-fear is a fashion superstar in the making. The collection is comprised of one-off, made to order separates and features luxurious fabrications including Japanese fabric paper, gold lame, double-knot ponte, moleskin and a brushed suiting-grade wool/cashmere blend. One of the designer's signature notions with each range is the development of a character that Ward-Fear feels embodies the spirit of each collection's aesthetic. 'Flames' protagonist is an ancient warrior Princess, brought to life in this space-age rendition by NZ model Liv O'Driscoll (at Chadwick/Red 11/MHI) and shot by Sydney-based Black photographer Thom Kerr. Stylist Cassandra Scott-Finn who collaborated with Kerr on the fabulous God In An Alcove shoot in the latest issue of Black styles up a storm, turning O'Driscoll into a "futuristic battle-ready bombshell" with make-up by Becca Gilmartin and hair by Lauren McCowan. Assistants on the shoot were Anastasia Spathis and Brian Le. From cut-out mini-dresses, cropped lace-up tops and jackets to high-waisted pants or embellished arm and leg guards, Ward-Fear displays his own unique vision of a fashion future, right now.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #21: Gianluca Santoro shoots Robyn Lawley

Top and choker by Emporio Armani, corset and heels by House of Priscilla, ring by Gucci

Robyn Lawley has graced the pages of Vogue Italia, French Elle and many other magazines in recent times. She is larger in 'size' than your average fashion model but this really means very little as, quite simply, she is hot and we love her. Photography by Gianluca Santoro and fashion by Tiana Wallace @ Viviens Creative, make-up by Natasha Severino @ Company 1 for YSL Beaute, hair by NZ's own Richard Kavanagh @ DLM for Redken NYC, assistant: Eric Altomare, all in a truly 'Black' style. Look out for an interview with Robyn in issue #16 of Black...

Left: Vintage dress from The Vintage Clothing Store, briefs by Nearly Nude,
bra by Pleasure State, harness by Scanlan and Theodore, boots by Friend of Mine

Georgia's Not So Little Secret

New Zealand model followers will probably know by now that Kiwi model Georgia Fowler, recently signed to N Model Management here in Aotearoa, has shot for Victoria's Secret. This is no small feat given the particular, almost obsessive nature of the VS casting process. "Picture perfect' girls are required so congrats must go to the 19 year-old NZ beauty for making the grade, bigger things await...

Topshop Spring/Summer 2012 Campaign

A definite king in the retail department, Topshop share their Spring/Summer 2012 campaign images with us photographed by Josh Olins.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL # 20: "Il buono, il brutto, il cattivo" Inside the World of Tango by Calypso Paoli

One of Auckland's gems, hidden inside Little High Street's arcade is the notorious vintage store, Tango. Tango's pieces are sourced and curated from all over of world, including New Zealand, by owner Driss Lambaraa from Morocco. The store boasts a 30 year collection, seeing Driss traveling back to Europe every year, visiting markets and auctions to add to his collection. He has a true love for vintage jewellery, clothing, accessories, furniture and art work from every era and is a claimed 'connoisseur' in everything vintage. Tango also supplies many pieces to films made here in New Zealand and to local stylists for various magazines.

To celebrate some of the found treasures inside Tango's world, Zach Robertson and Isaac Silva Looker at N Model Management were adorned in western leather and American denim, channeling films such as The Good the Bad and the Ugly, classic Sergio Leone's spaghetti westerns and inspirational actors such as Clint Eastwood and James Dean; Giant and Rebel Without a Cause. Photographed by Calypso Paoli and styled by Yasmine Ganley. All clothing and jewellery from Tango.

BLK #16: Paul Empson and Sam Ranger shoot Valerija Kelava in London

Valerija for NY Time's T Mag by Richard Burbridge

As the new year kicks in we're pleased to say our third fashion editorial for BLK #16 has been completed in London. Photographer Paul Empson and fashion editor Sam Ranger have shot one of the great rock'n'roll models of our time, Valerija Kelava. Kelava, a favourite of Paolo Roversi, David Sims and Glen Luchford among others exudes a devil-may-care androgeny that Patti Smith would be proud of. She crosses boundaries by simply being Valerija Kelava which is perhaps why Tai Missoni looks so comfortable with her (below). BLK #16 out end of April...

Tai Missoni and Valerija by Jurgen Teller for Missoni campaign 2011

Photo Essay: Little Odessa by Adam Custins and Valery Gherman - The Beach

Boardwalk Empire, Brighton Beach styles...

Photo Essay: Little Odessa by Adam Custins and Valery Gherman - People

There are times when we wish Black was a 1000-page magazine so that we could actually publish all of the fantastic work our contributors deliver. It is an economy of scale of course, but here online there are no limits. Over two posts here is Adam Custins and Valery Gherman's splendid day on Brighton Beach, which we could only dedicate six pages to in BLK #15. Gherman, Black's New York Editor was born in Odessa in the Ukraine before first immigrating to New Zealand and then New York. Brighton Beach, on the south-western tip of Long Island is known as 'Little Odessa' because of the proliferation of Ukrainians and as these pictures show, many more nations. Here are the people they encountered on that day, a multi-national sea of Speedos, tans and sunshine captured by Custins' quiver of instant cameras and film stocks - including Impossible Project. Intro by Valery Gherman.

We'd like to make an introduction, or two...

Every issue of Black we like to give our art director, Ian Ferguson at Friends Of Design, a little room to play with the opening pages. Ian's art direction, in partnership with creative director Rachael Churchward, and the editors, is a moveable creative feast each issue - rules are 'no rules' - yet the overall template remains largely analogous. Here, in no particular order are the opening pages of the fashion and beauty shoots as they appear in BLK #15...

Happy New Year!

The sun has set on 2011 - although anyone living in New Zealand will know that this photo wasn't taken on New Year's Eve - and Twenty Twelve is rolling in. As you may have noticed we have been taking a much needed break with family, friends and a lot of great TV series (Homeland, incredible; Dexter, still good; Game of Thrones, got better and better). 2012 is going to be an exciting year for us here at Black Magazine. We are going to three issues per year, will be publishing Black on three different digital platforms and we are planning a larger online presence all round. Wherever you are, whatever your weather, we hope you have a happy new year. Grant & Rachael x

A Little Shopping Après-ski?

The sun has finally come out in Auckland but if you are a Chanel fan and also like to ski you might consider making your way to Courchevel in the French alps. The great house has established a 'temporary boutique' in the mountain resort replete with four ceramic Madmoiselle Chanel figures, each over two metres tall, outside. Inside it is a stripped down, neutral affair with plenty of concrete, light boxes and splashes of colour. The boutique will house Karl Lagerfeld's 2011/12 Cruise collection alongside the Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 collection. So if you are in the area, you could do worse than visit the Chanel's winter wonderland in Courchevel.

BLK #15: Cover 2: Gertrud Hegelund by Chadwick Tyler

Friday afternoon, the perfect time to post our second cover. Louis Vuitton campaign star Gertrud Hegelund is captured by Chadwick Tyler in a shoot that references the great escape artist Houdini. Fashion editor Michelle Cameron places her in a Chanel jumpsuit for this cover, hair by Shin Arima and make-up by the great make-up artist, Valery Gherman. Have a great weekend - copies on sale around New Zealand next week.

Seeing The World Through Patsy Eyes

On the fourteenth day of December, my true love said to me, forget about the rest, just put a pair of Karen Walker Patsys under my tree. We understand, so do a number of It Girls and actresses around the globe if the Patsy frame's popularity is anything to go by. Bright, shiny, pop and unflinchingly fuschia the Patsy is a stand out in anyone's eyes and we have a pair to give away - just in time for Christmas and the summer-we-are-expecting-anytime-soon. Simply go to our Facebook page to enter!

BLK #15: Cover 1: Anna de Rijk by Paul Empson

Today, the good ship Black officially sets sail again after spending a couple of years grounded on the rocks of recession. To celebrate here is the first of our two covers for the issue which is at the printers; Anna de Rijk in Louis Vuitton, shot by Paul Empson, styled by Sam Ranger, hair by Halley Brisker, make-up by AshleyWard. We'll post the second cover by Chadwick Tyler, later this week...

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL # 19: Backstage Karen Walker SS12 NY show by Adam Custins

Black photographer and contributor Adam Custins is a master of instant film, of that we are quite sure. He recently spent a couple of months in the Big Apple, New York City, and captured these amazing backstage images from the Karen Walker S/S 12 show for Black. We adore both KW and Adam, enjoy...

Helmut Newton: Polaroids

When three of our favourite things; Helmut Newton, instant film and Taschen coalesce in the catalogue of photographic and fashion genius that is Helmut Newton; Polaroids we tend to find 'our happy place' as those ads for Sky TV say. Taschen have released the catalogue of hitherto unseen Newton images to accompany what is surely a wonderful exhibition at the Museum fur Fotografie in Berlin, Germany but if you can't make it to that then don't worry, the catalogue is on sale now, just in time for Christmas. Perhaps the most intriguing thing when leafing through the beautifully reproduced pages is the feeling that you are somehow privy to a little behind-the-scenes peek into Newton's shoots themselves. A must have for all Newton fans. Now, the good news is that we have ONE copy of this amazing catalogue to give away to Black readers and fans. We'll be giving it away over on our Facebook page and Taschen will mail it to the winner, no matter where they live in the world.

Helmut Newton Polaroids Exhibition
June 10, 2011 - May 20, 2012
Die Helmut Newton Stiftung im Museum für Fotografie, Jebensstrasse 2, 10623 Berlin, Germany

Left: Thierry Mugler, Monte Carlo 1998
Right: Cigar Industry, Milan, 1997

Left: Paris Match, Monte Carlo, 1985
Right: Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 1991