Time For A New Outlook

Conventional wisdom suggests that change is good for you, so after a few years living and working at Muriwai, West Auckland we are moving Black HQ into the magnificent Waitakere Ranges, also west of Auckland. We have shot here at Muriwai extensively over the years and will always love the many charms and latent power of this place, not to mention the sunsets which range from sublime to spectacular. As a parting shot, here is one of the more impressive sunsets from the past week....

Blacklog Editorial #15: Vanishing Elephant Seen In Waiatarua by Russ Flatt

In the middle of a cold and wet winter here in Aotearoa an indoor shoot is the go. In this casual and intimate study of Red 11's Jordan Barrett (above) and Tom Sheahan (below) photographer Russ Flatt and Black fashion director Rachael Churchward team to shoot Vanishing Elephant beside the fire, with the animals, whilst the rain thundered in and the Kauri trees creaked outside. Assistant fashion editor Jess Grubisa brought some of her nana's finest cookies as well as her usual fashion smarts and the other models are resident kitty cat Big Bruce and pup stars Quin and Tiki.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #14: Karen Walker AW 2011/12 by David K Shields

David K Shields teamed with Rachael Churchward to shoot Karen Walker's tough-yet-ladylike AW 2011/12 collection in a Blacklog style on a cool, windy Muriwai day. Hair & make-up by Natalie Dent using M.A.C Cosmetics, model is Stephanie Mac at Red 11. All fashion by Karen Walker, jewellery by Karen Walker Jewellery, eyewear by Karen Walker Eyewear, shoes by Beau Coops for Karen Walker.

Sneak preview: Jessica Grubisa 4th year Whitecliffe's Collection

Readers of the latest issue of Black will know how enamoured we are with Whitecliffes' Jessica Grubisa. The fourth year fashion student is a fine example of the maturing of the Whitecliffes fashion program under tutors like Belinda Watt. We are definitely seeing an increased array of skills and talent from schools like Whitecliffes, AUT and Massey in Wellington - and that's highly encouraging. As part of the final year of the fashion course, Whitecliffe's students are required to dress a window around town so if you have noticed a few new window displays, you now know why. Here are a few shots of the window as Jess created it at Workshop Newmarket that feature some of her painstakingly-crafted 'gem' dresses. She will show the full range along with other Whitecliffes students like Yun Do, Creina Brunton and Stephanie Au-Duong at her graduation show in November.

1st Wunderkammer Showroom Garage Sale

Photo: David K. Shields

This Saturday and Sunday our friends at Wunderkammer are holding a garage sale that will tweak the interest of anyone who loves Commes des Garcons, Ann Demuelemeester, Costume National or Wunderkammer Jewellery. Everything: $25, $50, $100 or $150. Honest.

1st Wunderkammer Showroom Garage Sale
Sat 9th July 10am-6pm and Sun 10th July 11am-4pm
62 Ponsonby Road,
Ponsonby, Auckland
Ph: +64 9 360 4090

Karen Walker's amazing Japanese fans

In this social network driven world of 'friends, likes and fans' it is both refreshing and endearing to discover the type of fans New Zealand designer Karen Walker has attracted in Japan in particular. So fervent are these followers that they regularly send Karen beautifully crafted hand-made presents as a token of their appreciation for her designs and the label in general. Some of the messages and images are impossibly cute, some detailed excursions into the active and creative minds of the fans, others personal travel stories - Karen Walker on tour. We asked Kate at Karen Walker to scan a few of these fabulously creative gifts so we could present them to you here on Blacklog. Enjoy...

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #13: Lady Got The Blues by David K. Shields

On a recent sojourn to Sydney, Black photographer David K. Shields teamed up with stylist Cassandra Scott-Finn to shoot Eva at The Agency. Melbournian Scott-Finn's background includes a stint as assistant to Brana Woolf, editor-at-large for US Harpers Bazaar. Hair & make-up artist Sinden Dean has fashioned a glittering career working with Madonna, Kylie and Britney among others whilst Eva is yet another beautiful face from the impressive Sydney boutique model house The Agency.

New Face: Rose at KHM Models

It's always interesting to shoot someone for the first time, particularly if they have never appeared in front of a camera before. This was Rose's first ever photo shoot and photographer Russ Flatt discovered very quickly that the camera loves her.

Photography: Russ Flatt

Fashion editor: Rachael Churchward

Hair & make-up: Natalie Dent using M.A.C Cosmetics
Rose wears: Karen Walker, Topshop and Glassons

New Face: Dakota at KHM Models

Dakota at Kimberly Hill Management (KHM Models) isn't really a 'new face' if you watched last season's series of NZ Next Top Model. Forget all of the dramas and tantrums of reality TV, Dakota arrived at our door with a smile on her face, an open mind and a fantastic personality to boot. Maori (Tūhoe) and Italian lineage informs an interesting whakapapa. Her awareness, personality and engaging humour enamoured us and recent moments on The Jono Show suggest Dakota has TV and modelling skills to burn...

Photography: Russ Flatt
Fashion editor: Rachael Churchward
Hair & make-up: Natalie Dent using M.A.C Cosmetics

Wanted: (Alive, thanks) Mulholland

Fans of independent NZ music will need little introduction to Jolyon Mulholland. The former lead singer of Motocade and current member of The Mots - both of which also feature the considerable talents of his brothers Eden and Will - will release his new album Eugene Told Me You Were Dead on Monday. Neil Finn once described Jol as "one of the most talented guys I know - he's got talent exuding from every pore" and listening through "Eugene" it is easy to see where the Kiwi music great is coming from. Recorded in a "small North Shore bedroom" (perhaps if it was big he might have gone too Phil Spector on it!) and mixed at Finn's Roundhouse Studios before being mastered in the land of Oz, the album is a pop sensation in the nicest way.

Interview: Jane Robertson of Bird Boutique

Photo: Deb Smith

If there is a sartorial oasis in the middle of Hamilton, as incongruous as that may sound, it is Casabella Lane, off Barton Street in the city centre. For a region better known for cowbells, woollen singlets and gumboots, Jane Robertson's three fab stores; Bird Boutique, Maude and The Clothes Horse provide welcome relief and do much in their own way to beautify the city. Readers of Black issue 12 may have read of Jane's importance to the Zambesi label before love took her to the Waikato.

Black: Jane, why Hamilton?

Jane Robertson: After spending 25 years living in Auckland, I moved to Hamilton late 2005 for marriage reasons and I soon realised the need for a beautiful women's fashion store.

B: Tell us about your long term relationship with Liz and Neville Findlay and the Zambesi label.

JR. I started working for Liz and Neville Findlay in the late 70's and part way through the 80's. It was such an incredible time, the economy was very buoyant. Liz and Neville had started wholesaling the Zambesi brand to exclusive stores around NZ. Liz was very inspired by Japanese fashion, its designers, their construction and use of fabric and she travelled regularly to Japan. Zambesi is such an iconic New Zealand brand, it's so genius....sophisticated in a very edgy timeless way. You really get so much pleasure wearing their pieces. It's not about dotting I's and crossing T's. Talking about my time working for the Findlays and Zambesi conjures up quite a few emotions...it was a real sense of belonging, they were like family. I feel like their ambassador. It's such a priviledge to have 'Zambesi' at 'Bird'.

The Men's Department poses a modelling question

Everyone knows that models are posers, right? That is, at the behest of a photographer or stylist they are asked to affect a certain stance, or pose. Interestingly, the difference between good posing and bad posing is more substantial than most realise and many good fashion editorials have been rendered 'bad' by overwrought, awkward or plain incomprehensible poses. The lavishly-titled Men's Department School of Modelling know this and have started a tongue-firmly-planted-in-cheek competition to see if you can come up with alternate poses to those so expertly practiced by Michael Whittaker (above). The best will be published on the Men's Department FB page and the first choice wins a Top Man Skinny Black suit - as worn by Michael, above. So come on poseurs; shoot, name and email your entry to: themensdepartment@thedepartmentstore.co.nz. 

Black #14: Digital Version live now on Zinio

For the eighth issue in a row, a digital version of Black Magazine is now available via Zinio. The sub price of NZ $15 is good value if you are into reading mags on your PC, Mac, iPad, iPhone et al. All you have to do is download the free Zinio reader purchase and download the file, and away you go. Here's an unpublished, adorable image from the issue to start your weekend. Pup Star, Zeka Murrell-Williams @ Ryder features, photo by Russ Flatt. Also available on Android from early next week.

Black #14: Fashion & Beauty Editorial Title Pages

Black #14 has been on sale here in NZ for a week now and it feels good. Thanks so much for the positive feedback and 5th birthday wishes. This issue, founding Black art director Ian Ferguson fell in love with a font called Stag, and so did we. Here's the opening spread from each of the fashion and beauty editorials in the issue. The Zinio version will be available online shortly...will keep you updated...

Playing In The Park with Karen Walker

We popped along to the well-populated opening of Playpark by Karen Walker last Friday and aside from it being a swell party, we were impressed with the set-up of the new store. Some hand-picked new brands; Cacharel, Hunter footwear, Julie Rofman and Kate Hillier jewellery (and soon, Eddie Borgo?), Fred Perry Laurel Wreath, Rittenhouse et al are added to the entire family of KW brands inclcuding Beau Coops for Karen Walker. Karen's ever-present horsey is there nestled amongst the jungle gyms (yes, climbing apparatus!) in a spacious store that gives new weight to a trip to Nuffield Street, Newmarket. First class Karen Walker! Here's a few images from the night by photographer Rebekah Farrell - including the smorgasbord of delicious sweets that had punters hovering all night...

Deadly Ponies Shine Online

New Zealand-based accessories label Deadly Ponies have been building a solid reputation for some time as a world class designer and producer of accessories and jewellery. For their many fans in Australia and further abroad, good news then that they have launched an online store meaning you can now buy Deadly Ponies wherever you live in the world.  Says DP's Liam Bowden: “After years of shying away from direct sales to customers, over the last year we have been bombarded with on-to-it customers phoning us directly and begging us to make them a sold-out bag. I decided that the time had come to give loyal DP followers more direct access to our products.” The new website pays homage to Liam's artisan roots with a mood board style layout and descriptors for each DP offering. To celebrate the launch of the online store we have two Deadly Ponies silver bow rings (above) to give away on our Facebook page.  The offer is open to Black online followers anywhere in the world.

Black #14 Cover: Derek Kettela shoots Ashley Smith in Louis Vuitton

Sitting at McCollams (our printers) with the whir of machines in the background. A good time to put up our new cover. Photography by Derek Kettela, fashion editor Michelle Cameron, make-up by Valery Gherman at Defacto.inc using MAC Cosmetics, hair by Shin Arima at Frankreps.com, model: Ashley Smith at Trump NY. Ashley wears: knit dress by Louis Vuitton, belt by Ralph Lauren, scarf by Meeshina.

Lonely Hearts S/S 2011 - Alone

The new Lonely Hearts Spring/Summer 2011 look book arrived this morning and we're digging it. Shot very nicely indeed by ex-pat Kiwi Rene Vaile in Sydney, styled by one of Sydney's best Tamila Purvis, the look book stars Anja Konstantinova @ Priscillas, make-up by the fab Nicole Thompson @ M.A.C Cosmetics and great hair by Timothy Stone. The Lonelys are gaining serious traction in both New Zealand and Australia and this collection will only add to that impetus.

Preview: Black issue #14

Photo: Paul Empson  Fashion editor: June Nakamoto
Make-up: Tatyana Makarova Hair: Franco Argento
Model: Michaela Kocianova at Elite Paris
Michaela wears:  Moschino Cheap & Chic, Dior, YSL, La Bagagerie, Karry'o

Phew! That was a deadline and a half! Mag at the printers so here are a few preview images from Black issue #14 to whet your appetite. It's our biggest issue ever and of course our 5th birthday issue. Time to crack open a nice bottle of Shiraz

Photo: Christopher Morris Fashion editor:David Bonney
Make-up Nicole Thompson  Hair: Gavin Anesbury
Model: Krystal Glynn at The Agency Krystal: Wears Zambesi

Nick Von K's black pearl snake head pieces

Photo: Daniel Max

Auckland jeweller Nick Von K has created something special with these black pearl, 18 carat white gold snakehead pieces. The bespoke, one-offs feature very rare, perfectly round black pearls sourced from a friend of photographer Daniel Max. "Willy" is the son of a Tahitian pearl farmer and had the pearls in his possession for many years before allowing Nick to use them for these unique, gorgeous pieces. For the larger piece, Nick came up with the idea of the snake swallowing the pearl, Willy loved it and Von K took the pearl to Bali where his best carver spent three days carving the snake head to fit perfectly whilst Von K sat with him to discuss the design. Von K has a valuation certificate valuing the piece at NZ $11,000. Anyone genuinely interested in the pieces can contact Nick directly: nick@nickvonk.com

Beau Is The Go!

All photos by Greg Novak

Along with No Magazine editor Delany Tabron and Megan from FQ, we spent a late afternoon at the House of Last showroom in Chippendale, Sydney in between shows at last week's RAFW. Utterly fabulous New Zealand-born shoe designer Carrie Cooper and her able director of marketing, fellow Kiwi Carla Robinson, entertained us and showed us through the new range of Beau Coops, Carrie's signature label. To say that Beau Coops is progressing is an understatement. Her new collection, featuring a raft of fab styles for both men and women is all class, style and concept - and quite simply, we want them all! Faithful Black photographer Greg Novak lensed these shots of just a few shoes from the new range - now available in New Zealand, Australia and many other parts of the world.

RAFW Hair: Magdalena Velevska by Richard Kavanagh

Whilst we were largely attending M.A.C shows at RAFW this year, our photographer Greg Novak covered a couple of shows that featured Kiwi hair legend Richard Kavanagh working his magic. Here is a selection of images from the Magdalena Velevska show that validate just how far Richard has come in recent years working on the global team for Redken, learning from the greats like Guido. Make-up by Nica Marcello for Bobbi Brown.We asked Richard to describe his look for this show:

"The hair @ Magdalena Velevska was inspired by the essence of folky and ethnic craftwork. The idea was to try and reflect the macrame motif in the fabric as well as the highly controlled execution of the cut and drape of the fabric. Redken Rootful and Forceful were the key products to create control and shine and the hair was rope braided in a geometric pattern similar to macrame. To make it modern a strong V- shaped parting in the front gave the girls a futuristic look. "

RAFW Beauty: Stolen Girlfriends Club backstage by Greg Novak

On Thursday night, Kiwi label Stolen Girlfriends Club showed at a packed Cargo Theatre on site at RAFW. The show featured a series of fab prints by Auckland artist Karl Maughan but more on that and the range itself in a wrap-up-of-the-week post later this week. Here, we are focusing on the make-up by Terry Barber for M.A/C Cosmetics and the hair by Greg Murrell @ Ryder for KMS California. Photos of the two maestros and crew at work below. All images by Greg Novak.

RAFW Beauty: Kate Sylvester backstage by Greg Novak

We asked photographer Greg Novak to pick up some doco shots backstage at the gorgeous Kate Sylvester show on Tuesday night, not just Australian models like Julia Nobis or Krystal Glynn but also Terry Barber (above), M.A.C's director of artistry for the UK, and the M.A.C and Redken crews at work. Terry has been in overdrive this week doing interview after interview, shooting for local mags, holding M.A.C master classes and showing his magic as key artist for both the Kate Sylvester show and Stolen Girlfriends Club tonight. 

RAFW Beauty: Kate Sylvester by Terry Barber

 We have so thoroughly enjoyed meeting M.A.C make-up legend Terry Barber this week that we are going to kidnap him and put him in our luggage at the end of the week to take him to New Zealand. Last night Kate Sylvester showed a stunningly beautiful collection at the Inglis horse sales coral in Randwick. Here are a couple of images by Greg Novak of Terry's sublime look for the show. Hair by John Pulitano.

RAFW Beauty: Flannel by Nicole Thompson

All photos by Greg Novak

The sun is shining today in Sydney after a couple of grey days. RAFW has been loads of fun already and we've seen some great shows, met some swell people and hung out with our Kiwi friends and plenty of Aussies too. Here is the first of a series of posts that concentrate on the make-up expertise of our hosts, M.A.C Cosmetics and the beauty/hair side in general. West Australian label Flannel showed La Sacura, a luxe range steeped in Japanese influence on Monday. All photos by Greg Novak. Key M.A.C make-up artist for this show was Nicole Thompson whose amazing work will also feature in the upcoming issue of Black. Hair by Redken with lead stylist John Pulitano @ Headcase Hair.

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #12: Greg Novak and Richard Kavanagh shoot big hair

Today we head over to Rosemount Australian Fashion Week thanks to our good friends at the world's greatest make-up company, M.A.C. We will be joining our photographer Greg Novak over there to capture images for the blog and the magazine. Fittingly, here is a wee Blacklog Editorial shot this week by Greg and Kiwi hair maestro Richard Kavanagh. Natalie Dent was there on make-up and the model was Natalie Cantell @ Clyne.

Tristan Blair Brogues at The Men's Department

Photo: Daniel Max

Aussie shoe genius Tristan Blair has always had a penchant for all things military. For his AW 2011 collection entitled "Vivid Arms" Blair researched the styles, colours and cuts used in military footwear and in particular, the variations of leather used to heel young recruits. The collection makes a hero out of beautiful natural hides in rich, dark burgundy and mocha tones and the good news for Kiwi brogue fans is the shoes are now available at The Men's Department on Auckland's North Shore. So, march on in and score yourself a pair. 

BLACKLOG EDITORIAL #11: New Season Kiri Nathan by David K.Shields

OK, on deadline like crazy, but that doesn't mean we can't post a Blacklog Editorial for you! David K Shields took some of the new season Kiri Nathan to the West Coast again, this time with Aussie beauty Michelle Hughes @ Clyne. Stacy Lee Ghin added beautiful hair and make-up. Please note that all garments are made to order...

Desert - The Real Story Behind Kiwi-Asian Marriages

Young Kiwi-Korean director Stephen Kang is set to release his second feature film Desert at the Rialto on May 5. Based on real life events, Desert follows the story of Jenny, a pregnant young Asian girl living in Auckland who is left to fend for herself when she is abandoned at the altar by her Kiwi boyfriend. Not only is she abandoned by the cad but she is also rejected by her own community for getting pregnant to a Westerner, out of wedlock. She goes in search of the miscreant partner but in the end is forced to look inside herself to find a solution for her and her unborn baby. Shot in the late night fluorescent world of Auckland laundromats and familiar landmarks, and subtitled in English, the film marks not only a huge step up for the fledgling director but also a sentient moment in Asian-New Zealand equivalence. Desert, a Severe/Curious Film production, starring Jane Kim, Andrew Han and Marek Sumich, directed by Stephen Kang at The Rialto from May 5.

Kicking around...

Last week we were shooting for our Blacklist section with photographer Marissa Findlay in Parnell when she snapped these images of model Josh @ Vanity Walk kicking around in his rock'n'roll studded Converse by John Varvartos, arriving April/May in New Zealand. Shoes in action...just the way you wear them...jeans by Nobody @ MADE.

Featured photographer: Greg Novak

You may have noticed that Auckland photographer Greg Novak has been shooting for us here on Blacklog and in the upcoming issue of Black he will have his first published shoot with the magazine as well as shooting a number of portraits in our new Blacklist section. Greg is developing his style across a number of  photographic disciplines; fashion, beauty and portraits and is proving he is as good with fresh, clean daylight as he is under lights. He is a technically smart, knows how to frame and is also quite prolific; here is a small selection of his recent beauty images.

Here is his website and his Tumblr site.

Black #14 On Set: Karen Inderbitzen-Waller shoots the Kate Sylvester archive

Annmari (left) and Amelia (right) 

Yesterday we completed our fashion editorial shooting schedule for Black #14. A designer special featuring one of New Zealand's most loved labels, Kate Sylvester. Karen Inderbitzen-Waller lensed with Delphine Avril Planqueel on lighting and digital. Black fashion director Rachael Churchward created a story from the impressive and substantial archive with assistance from Jessica Grubisa. Lauren Gunn @ Stephen Marr was in charge of the hair for the day and Shirley Simpson applied the make-up using M.A.C Cosmetics whilst the lovely Ash assisted everyone who needed help! The models were Annmari and Amelia both @ Red 11 models.

Karen Walker Jewellery at Harrods!

Is there a more prestigious retail destination in the world than Harrods? Probably not, so congratulations must go out to Karen Walker Jewellery. The legendary Knightsbridge, London luxury shopping institution has purchased a significant amount of Karen's 'Superfine' collection, including the top-selling heart and star pendants and earrings. The jewellery will be on sale in store but will also feature in the Harrods magazine which goes out to over 70,000 super top end customers, literally the creme de la creme of fashion customers. Bam!

Salasai film "A Strange Love Project" by Claire Littler & Ralph Matthews

Salasai's film last night was called A Strange Love Project and was less about Dr Strangelove and more about strange suburban neurosis. Directed by Claire Littler and Ralph Matthews the film was also styled by Dan Ahwa, hair was by Lauren Gunn @ Stephen Marr, make-up by Katie Rogers. The film stars one of New Zealand's great models, Penny Pickard, and the magnificently illustrated Sam Crocker. The tune is West by Menomena.


A Strange Love Project from SALASAI on Vimeo.

Nick Von K film "Beautiful Alchemy" by Matt Wilson

Last night each designer chose to show their new season ranges by way of a short film. At the beginning of the year we suggested this could be the year of the fashion film and both of these films add weight to that theory. First up, here is Nick Von K's film, directed by Matt Wilson, shot by Maxy, styled by Dan Ahwa. Invasion of the Bodysnatchers style art department by Nick Klarwill, produced by Emily Moon and body art/make-up by Monika Olson. The models are Hunter McLeod @ Clyne and Gabriella Kuhns @ Red 11.


Beautiful Alchemy from Maxy on Vimeo.

Salasai + NIck Von K Project: Party Pics

Last night at the Hopetoun Alpha Salasai launched their SS 2011 range and Nick Von K his new season jewellery with an event that featured a film of each range, a performance by the velvet-voiced Julia Deans replete with dancers and a stunning exhibition of portraits by Russ Flatt. The event raised money for the Red Cross Christchurch Earthquake appeal but also raised the bar for portraiture with Flatt showing just how skilled and creative he is in the medium. Thanks to sponsors Osmosis, Vidal wines, Peroni, 420 water, Hopetoun Alpha and Kingsize Studios. Before the night kicked off we snapped some pictures of the fashionable crowd...

New Face: Krystal Glynn by Thom Kerr

Lincoln Ferguson, owner of boutique Sydney agency The Agency has unearthed a gem in 16-year-old Krystal Glynn. The Sydneysider was discovered on her second trip to Bondi Beach by Ferguson recently and in very short time has secured a contract with DNA Models, New York. This girl is going to fly. Here is her first test, wearing Zambesi, by photographer Thom Kerr, styled by Cassandra Scott-Finn, hair & make-up by Rebekah Clark @ Work. Definitely one to watch....

Black #14: Behind the scenes, Woodstock, New York

As mentioned in a previous post Derek Kettela, Michelle Cameron, Valery Gherman and Shin Arima shot Ashley Smith in Woodstock, upstate New York this week. Winter has melted away in this lovely place and  the crew were blessed with a sparkling early spring day to capture the lovely Ashley in new season Louis Vuitton, Dior, Vivienne Westwood and more. Here are a few behind the scenes snaps by Black New York editor Valery Gherman.

As Shin Arima works his magic, Ashley checks out issue #13 of Black